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https://archive.org/details/meehanickexercis00moxo_1

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Mechanick Exercifes :

O R T H E

DOCTRIN E

HANDY-WORKS.

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Applied to tlie Arts of J CatpCIlttip

) Cuming ( TSiicfelapecPt

To which is added

Mechanick Dialling : Shewing how to draw a true Snii-Dyalon any given Plane, however Scitua- ted ^ only with the help of a ftraight Ruler and a pair of Compajfes^ and without any Arithmeti- cal Calculation,

€l)irD

Bj JOSEPH MOXON, Fellow of the Royd Society^ and Hjdrographer to the late KJng Charles.

LONDON:

Printed for Dan. Midwinter and Fho. Leigh ^ at the lioje and Croivn in St. Vauts^Church-Iard. 1 703.

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P R E FAC E.'

ISee no more ^afon^ why the Sordidnefs of fome Workmen, (hould he the cauje of contempt upon Manual Operations, than that the excellent Invention of 4 Mill fmld be difpis’dy becaufe a blind Horfe dram in it. And tho’ the Mechanicks be, by feme, accounted Ignoble and Scandalous ? yet it is Very well knoivn, that many Gentlemen in this iKation, of good ^nkand high Quality, are conVerfant in Handy-Works : And 0- ther TSfations exceed us in numbers of fuch. tlow pleafant and healthey this their Diver- foil is, their Minds and Dodies find ; and how Harmlefs and Hone f, all fober men may judge ?

That Geometry, Aftroiioray, Per- fpetlive, Mufick, Navigation, Archi- tediire, <yc. are excellent Sciences, all that know hut their Very Names willconfef: Jet to what purpofe would Geometry ferve, were it not to contrive ^ks for Handy-Works ? Or how could Aftronomy be fnown to any perfeBkn.^ but by Jnfruments made by Hand ?

A z Jfhat

PREFACE.

Whctt Perfpeftive pjouU we have to delight our Sight ? What Mufick to ravifh our Ears ? What Navigation to Guard and Enrich our Country i Or what Architecture to dtfend us from the InconVeniencies of different Weather^ without Manual Operations ? Or how wafle and ujelefs would many of the TroduHions of this and other Counties he, were it not for Manufactures.

To dive into the Original of the Mecha- nicks is impofjihle, therefore I (hall not offer at it j only I (hall fay, it is Rational to think, that the Mechanicks began with Man, he being the only Creature that Nature has impofed moflNecejptyu^on to ufe it, endow'd withgrea- tefl %eafon to contrive it, and adapted with pro‘ pere(l: Members (,as Inflruments) to perform it.

Nor is it eafte to find by any Jnthority, what part of the Mechanicks was (irfl ^raEiifed by Man therefore I (hall wave that too, and only confider, that if we our felves were thefirfl Men, what branch of the Mechanicks we P^ould firfi Need, and have recourfe to.

I have confidered, and Atjwer, That ■without the Invention of Smithing prima- rih, mo(l other Mechanick Invention - ” would

PREFACE.

muU be at a ftand : The JnfirumentSy or Tools y that are ufed in them, being either made of Iron, or fome other mattery fornt d by the help of Iron. !B«f pray take Tiotice, that by Iron, I aljo mean Steel, it being originally Iron.

ISIor would I have you underjland, that when I name the Mechanicks, 1 mean that rough and barbarous fort of working which is ufed by the Natives of America, and fome other fuch Tlaces', for, though they did indeed make Houfes, Canoes, Earth- en Tots, IBowSy Arrows, See. without the help of Iron, hecaufe they had then none amongfl them : Yet ftnee Iron is now hiowu to them, they leave of their old way cf working without it, and betake themfelves to the ufe of it. Nor are, at this day, {though now they have in part the ufe of Iron) their Machines made by good and ready ^iles cf Art; for- they hiow neither of Rule, Square, or Com pals ; and what they do, is done by Tedious Working, and he that has the bejl Eye at Gueffing , works beft upon the Straight, Square or Circle,

The Lord Bacon, in his Natural Hif- tory, reckons that Philofophy would be

improv’d.

P R. E F A C E.

im^roV dy hy haying the Secrets of all Trades Ije open-, not only becauje tnuch Experi- mentai Philofophy , is Coucht amorgjl them ; hut alfo that the Trades themjelves might, by a Philofopher, he improVd. ‘Bejtdes, I find, that one Trade may borrow many Eminent Helps in "Work of another Trade.

Hitherto I cannot learn that any hath under- taken this 1 asky though I could have wifot it had been performed by an abler hand then mine ; yet, fince it is not, / have yetured upon it.

I thought to haye given thefe Exer- cifes, the Title of The Dos^rine of Handy-Crafcs ; but when I better con- fdered the true meaning of the Word Handy'Crafcs, 1 found the Dodtrine would not bear it-, becaufe Hand-Crafc fignifies Q'annmg, or Sleight, or Craft of the Hand, ii;hich cannot be taught by Words, hut is only gained by Pradlife and Exerciie ; therefore I fhall not undertake, that with the bare reading of thefe Exer- ciies, any foall he able to perform thefe Handy*Works; but I may fafely tell you, that thefe are the Rules that e- yery one that will endeavour to perform

PREFACE.

them imijl follow ; and that by the true oh- ferVmg them^ he may, according to his flock of Ingenuity and Diligence, Jooner or later, inure his hand to the Cunning or Craft of working like a Handy-Craft, and confequently be able to perform them in time.

For the ^eafon aforefaid 1 intend to begin with Smithing, which comprehends net only the Black-Smith’s Trade, but takes in all Trades which ufe either Forge or File, from the Anchor-Smith, to the W atch- Maker ; they all werking by the fame Rules, tho not with equal exaElnefs, and all ufing the fame Tools, tho’ of feVeral Si;^s from thofe the common Black-Smith ujes, and that according to the yaricus purpofes they are applied to: And in order to it, I fhall firjl jbetfi you how to fet up a Forge, and what Tools you mujl ufe in the Black- Smith’s work j then the Rules, and feye- ral Circumftances of Forging, till your, Work come to the File : Then of the feye- ral Sorts of Iron that are commonly ufed ; and what fort is fittefi for each purpofe. Afterwards of Filing in general, and the Rules to be obferyed in it, in the making of

Jacks,

PREFACE.

Jacks, Hinges, Screws, Clocks, Watch- es, <£r‘c. In which Ezam^leSy you will find all other Sorts of Forging or Fi- ling work whatJoeVer comprehended. Aid laftlyy as a clofe to Smithing, IJhall Ex- ercife upon Steel, and its federal Sorts y and how to Order and Temper it for its JeVeral Ufes ; and what Sort is fittefi for each particular purpofe; as which is fittefi for Edge-Tools, which for Springs, which for Punches, <yc.

Some perhaps tvould have thought it mote Tropety to have introduced thefe Exer- dies with a more Curious, and lefs Vul- gar Art, than that of Smithing ; but I am not of their Opinion ; for Smithing is in all parts y as curious a Handy- Craft, as' any is : Sefides , it is a great Introdubi- ion to mojl other Handy- W orks, as Joy- nery. Turning, <zc. they (with the Smith) iporking upon the Sraight, Square, or Circle, though ivith different Tools, upon different Matter ; and they all ha- ving dependance upon the Smith’s Trade, and not the Smith upon them.

Jofeph Moxon*

(O

UECHAKICI^ EXE(^C1SES:

O R,

The Doctrine of Handy~Works.

0/ SMITHING mGeneraL

Defnition.

MITHING is an Art-Manual^ hy which an irregular Lump (or federal Lumps) of Irony is lurought into an intended Shape.

This Definition^ needs no Explanation^ therefore I fhall proceed to give you an Account of the Tools a Smith ufes; not but that (they being fo common) I fuppofe you do already know them ; but partly becaufe they may require fome precaution in fetting thetri up fitteft to your ufe ^ and partly becaufe it be- hoves you to know the Names^ Smiths call the feveral parts of them by^* that when I name thetd in Smith’s Language (as I fhall oft have occa- fion to do in thefe Exerdfes ) you may the eafier underftand them^ as you read them.

Of fetting up a S?7sitEs Forge.

The Hearth y or Fire-place of the Forge mark- ed A, (in Plate I.) is to be built up froni your floor with Brick about two foot and an half; or fometimestwo foot nine Inches high^a,ccord- ingto thepurpofe youdefign your Forge lov* fot if yoiir Forge be intended for heavy work, your mun lie lower than it need be for light A work;

2. SMITHING.

work, for eafinefs of management, an^ fo broad as you think convenient : It may be built with hollow Arches underneath, to fet feveral things out of the way. The Back of the For^e is built up- right to the top of the Ceiling, and inclofed o- ' ver the Fire-place with a Homely which ends in a Chimney to carry away the Smoak, as B. In the back of the Forge againft the Fire-place,is fixed a thick Iron Plate, and a taper Pipe in it about five Inches long, called a Ttwel^ or ( as fome call it) a TejveFirGn marked which Pipe comes through the Back of the Forge^ as at C. Into this taper Pipe or Tewel is placed the Nofe, or Pipe of the Bellows. The Office of this Tewel^ is only to pre- ferve the Pipe of the Bellows, and the back of the Forge about the Fire-place from burning. Right againft the Back is placed at about twenty Inches, or two foot diftance, the Trough^ and reaches commonly through the whole breadth of the Forge ^ and is as broad and deep as you think good, as at D. The Bellows is placed behind the Back of the Forge ^ and hath as aforefaid, its Pipe fitted into the Pipe of the Te^ioel^ and hath one of its Boards fixed fb that it move not upwards or downwards. At the Ear of the upper Bellows board is faftened a Rope, or fometimes a T/jmg of Leather, or an Iron Chain or Rod^ as E ,• which reaches up to the Rocker^ and is faitened there to the farther end of the Handle,asat F. ThisiL/?;- die is faftened a crofs a Rock-fiaff^ which moves between two Cheeks upon the Center-pins, in two Sockets, as at G. So that by drawing down this Handle, the moving Board of the Bellows ri- fes, and by a confiderable weight fet on the top of its upper Board finks down again, and by this Agitation performs the Office of a pair of Bellows.

3

smithing.

of the Anvil.

The fliape of a Black Smith’s Anvil I have inferted in this Figure^ though it is fomc- times made with a Tlke^ or Blckern^ or BeakAron^ at one end of it^whofe ufe I jliall Ihew you when I come to round hollow work. Its lace muft be v^ery flat and fmooth^without Flaws^ andfo hard that a File will not touch It (as Smiths fay^ when a File will not cut^ or race it.) The upper Plain A. is called the Face; it is commonly fet upon a wooden Blocks that it may ftand very fteady^and folid^and about two foot high from the floor^ or fometimes higher, according to the ftature of the Perfon that is to work at it.

Of the Tongs.

THerearetwo forts of Tongs ufed by Smiths 5 the one the Stralgbt-?iofed Tongs ^ ufed when the work is fhort, and fomewhat fiat, and gene- rally for all Plate Iron. The other Crooked-nos d Tongs j to be ufed for the forging fmall Bars, or fuch thicker work, as will be held within the Returns of their ChapsJThQChaps are placed near the Joint, becaufe, that confidering the length of the Flandlesy they hold the Iron fafter than they would do, were they placed farther from the Joint, as in the Fig. 3. 4. AthoChaps^ B the Joint y CC the Handles.

Of the Hammer, and the Sledge.

THere are feveral forts of Hammers ufed by Black-Smiths ,• as firfl: the Hand-hammevy which is fometimes bigger, or lefs, according to the Strength of the Work-man ,• but it is zHam^ mer of fuch weight, that it may be weilded, or governed, with one hand at the A7%viL Second- ly, thcUp-hand Sledgey ufed by under-Workmen, when the Work is not of the largeft, yet requires

A 2 help

4 smithing,

help to batter, or draw k out ; they hfe it with both their hands before them, and feldom lift their Hammer higher than their head. Thirdly, the About Sledge is the biggeft Harmner of all,and is alfo ufed by under-Workmen, for the batter- ing, or drawing out of the largefi: Work ,* and then they hold the farther end of the Handle in both their Hands,and fvvingingthe Sledge above their Heads, they at Arms end let fall as^heavy a Blow as they can upon the Work. There is alfo another Hammer ufed by them, v/hich they call a 'R.t^etUng-hammer, This is the Hammer

of all, and very rarely ufed at the Forge ^ unlefs your Work prove veryfmall ,• but upon cold I- ron it is ufed for rivetting, or fetting flraight, or crooking fmall work. In Fig. 5'. A the Face^ B the Ten^ C the Eje^ D the Handle,

Of the Vice.

The Vice mufl be fet up very firmly that it (hake not,and ftand upright with its Chap^ parallel or range with your Work-bench ; becaufe fquare filing, is a great piece of good Work- manfhip in a-Smith j and fliould the Vice not ftand upright, and range with the Work- bench, the Chap pinching upon two fquare fides, would make the top fide of your work either lean to- wards you, or from you,* and confequently you filing (as a good Workman ought to do ) upon the flat, or Horizontal Plain of your work, would take oft' more of that Angle, orEdge,whichri- fes higher than the Plain, and lefs off that Edge, that lies lower than the Plain ,* fo that one Angle being higher, or lower.than the other,YOur work inftead of being filed S^uare^woDlA be filed Squa-^ re-wifep^h^n you iliall have filed all its flat fides, and that more or lefs, according to the leaning Qf the Chap of your PSce, AA t he Face^ hath its

two

SMITHING. f

two ends in a ftraight Line with the middle ofits.Euey or Flain. B the mult be cut with a Baflard Cut^, and very well tempered; Cthe Screw Fh^cut with a fquare ftrong Worm. D the Nuf^ or Screw Box y hath alfo a fquare TEsrmy and is brazed into the round Box. E the Spring muft be made of good Steel, and very well temper’d : Where note that the wider the two ends cf the Spring ftand afiinder, the w^ider it throws the Chaps of the Fice open. F the Foa muft be ftraight , and therefore will be the ftronger to bear good heavy blows upon the work fcrewed in the Chaps of the Ficcy that it neither bow, or tremble.

Of the Hand- Vice.

OF the Hand-Vice are two Sorts, one is called the Broad Chapt Hand-Vice^ the Other the Scjuare Nos'd Hand-Vice. The Office of the Hand-" Viccy is to hold fmall work in, that may require often turning about ,* it is held in the left hand^ and each part of your work turned upwards fucceftively, that you have occafion to file with your right. The S cfu are-no s' d Hand-Vice is fel- dom Hied, but for filing fmall Globulous Work, as the Fleads of Pins that round off towards the Edges, &c. And that becaufe the Chaps do not ftand Ihouldering in the way, but that the flat of the File may the better come at the Edges. Their Chaps muft be cut as the Vice aforefaid, and well tempered.

Of the Flyers.

PLyers^vQ of two Sorts, Flat Nos'dy Round

Nos'd. Their Office is to hold, and faften upon all fmall work, and to fit it in its place. The R.ound Nos'd Flyers are ufed for turning, or bowing Wyer, or fmall Plate, into a circular Form. The Chaps of the Fla:Njsd pljesy muft A 2 aifo

0

6 SMItHlNG.

alfo be cut and temper’d ^ as the Chaps of the Vice, A the Nofe^ B the Chaps, C the Joint, DD the Handles,

f

Of the Drills and Drill-Bow.

D Kills are [ufed for the making fuch Holes as Punches will not conveniently ferve for ^ as a piece of work that hath already its Shape, and muft have an hole , or more , made in it. Here the force of a Punch, will fet your work out of order andfliape, becaufe it will both bat- ter the Surface of the Iron, and ftretch its Sides out : The {liank of a Key alfo, or fome fuch long Hole, the Punch cannot ftrike, becaufe the Shank is not forged with fubflance fufficient ; but the Drill, tho’ your work be filed and po- lifh’d, never batters or ftretches it,but cuts a true round Hole, juft in the point you firft place it. You muft have feveral Sizes of Drills, according as your work may require. The ftiapein Fig. 8. is enough to fhew the Falliion of it ,• but it muft: be made of good Steel, and well temper’d. A the Feint, A B the Shank, C the Drill-barrel : Where note, that the bigger the Drill-barrel is, the eaiier it runs about, but lefs fvvift.

And as you muft be provided with feveral Drills, fo you may fometimes require more than one DrilUbo7v, or at leaft, feveral Drill-firings • the ftrongeft Strings for the largeft Drills, and the fmalleft Strings for the fmalieft Drills : But you muft remember, that whether you ufe afmailor ftrong^m;^^, you keep y gut Drill-Bow PiX‘dining your String pretty ftiff, or elfe your String will not carry your Barrel briskly about. But your String and Bow, muft both be accomm.odated to the Size of your jDri/7,- and if both, or either, be tooftrong, they will break, or bend your Drills or if too weak, they will not carry about the -Bar- rel, as aforefaid. " The

SMITHING. 7

The Dr ill-? late y or Breafi-Flatc yis only apiece of flat Iron^ fixt upon a flat Boards which Iron hath an hole punched a little way into it, to fet the blunt end of the Shank of the Drill in^when you drill a hole : Workmen inftead of it^ many rimes ufe the Hammer y into which they prick a hole a little way on the fide of it^ and fo fet the Hammer agaiim their Breait

Of the Screw-Plate^ and its Taps.

The Screw-Vlate is a Plate of Steel well tem- per’d, with feveral holes in it, each lefs than other,and in thofe Holes are Threds grooved inwards ,• into which Grooves y fit the refpediive Tafs that belong to them. The Tapthsit belong to them, are commonly made tapering towards the Point, as Fig. 7. /hews. But thefe tapering Tapy will not ferve for fome forts of works, as I fiiall fiiew in its proper place.

Thefe are the mofl: Elfential Tools ufed in the Black-Smith’s Trade ,* but fome accidental work , may require fome accidental Tools, which, as they may fall in, I Ihall give you an account of in convenient place.

0/ Forging in general.

I Think it neediefs to tell you how to make your Fire, or blow it, bccaufe they are both but Labourers work ^ nor how little, or big, it need to be, for your own reafon will, by the Si^e of your work, teach you that ,* only let me tell you the Phrafe Smiths ufe for[make the Fire] iSyBloii^ up the Fire yOr fometimes. Blow up the Coals.

When it is burning with the Iron in it, you muft, with the Slicey clap the Coals upon the. out-fide clofe together, to keep the heat in the body of the Fire ; and as oft as you find the Fire begin to break out, clap them clofe again, and

4 4 witk

B smithing/

with the JVaJher dipt in Water^ wet the dut-fide of the Fire to damp the out-fide ^ as well to fave CcalSj as to Itrike the force of the Fire in- to the in-fide, that your work may heat the fooner. But you ought oft to draw your work a little way out of the Fire^ to fee how it takes its Heat^ and quickly thruft it in again^ if it be not hot enough : For each purpofe your work is de- figned to^ ought to have a proper Heat fuitable to that purpofe^ as I fliall lliew you in the feveral Heats of Iron : For if it be too cold^ it will not feel the tv eight of the Hammer (as Smiths fay^ when it will not batter under the Hammer ) and if it be too hot, it will Red-fear ^ that is, break, or crack under the Hammer^ while it is working between hot and cold.

Of the fe‘veral Heats Smiths take of their Iron,

THere are feveral degrees of Heats Smiths take of their Iron, each according to the purpofe of their work. As firh, a Blood-red Heat, Secondly, a White Flame Heat, Thirdly, a Spark- ling^ or Welding Heat,

The Blood-red Heat is ufed when Iron hath aF ready its form and fze, as fometimes fquare Bars, and Iron Plates, &c, have, but may want a little Hammering to fmooth it. Ufe then the 'F2.ct QiyQmHand-kam?ncr^ and with light flat Blows, hammer dov/n the irregular Rifings into the Body of your Iron, till it be fmooth enough for the File. And note,that it behoves a good Workman,to hammer his Work as true as he can,* for one quarter of an hour (pent at the Forge^ may fave him an hours work at the Vice,

The Flame y or White Heat, is ufed when your Iron hath not its Form or Size, but muft be for- ged into both ,* and then you muft take a piece of Iron thick enough, and with the of your ' ' ■ Ham-

smithing. 9

Hammer y(ov fometimeS;, according to the fize of yourwork^ufe two or three pair of hands with Sledges to) batter it out j or^ as Workmen call it, to draw it out^ till it comes to its breadth, and pretty near its fbape ,* and fo by feveral Heats ^ if your work require them, frame it into Form and Size ,* then with the Face of your Hand- hamwevy linooth your work from the Dents the Ten made, as you did with a Blood-red Heat.

A Sparkling^ or JVeldlng-^heat ^\s only ufed when you double up your Iron (as Smiths ^call it ) to make it thick enough for your purpofe, and fo weldy or work in the doubling into one another, and make it become one entire lump,- or it is ufed when you join feveral Bars of Iron toge- ther to make them thick enough for your pur- pofe, and work them into one Bar ,- or elfe it is ufed when you are to join, or weld two pie- ces of Iron together end to end, to make them long enough but, in this cafe, you mufl: be very quick at the Forge ; for when your two end.s are throughout of a good Heaty and that the infide of the Iron be almoft ready to Run, as well as the outfide , you mufl: very haftily fnatch them both out of the Fire together,and ( after you have with the Edge of your Hammer feraped off fuch Scales or Dirt as may hinder their incorporating) with your utmofl: diligence clap your left han(f-piece,upon your right hand- piece, and with all fpeed (left you lofe forae part of your good Heat) fall to Hammering them together, and work them foundly into one another : and this, if your Bars be large , will require another, or fomtimes two or three pair of Hands befides your own to do : but if it be not throughly welded at the firft Heaty you muft reiterate yoiiv Heats fo oft, till they be throughly welded; then with ^Flame-heat ('as

before

lO

smithing.

before) fbape it, and afterwards fmooth it with a Blood-red Heat. To make your Iron come the fooner to a TVeldmg---h eat ^youmvA now” and then with your He art k-fi a ff&irnp the Fire,and throw up thofe Cinders the Iron may have run upon; for they will never burn Vv^ell, but fpoii the reft ©f the Coals; and take a little white Sand be- tween your Finger and your Thumb, and throw upon the heating Iron, then with your Slice, quickly clap the outfideof your Fire down a- gain ; and with your Wajhcr diptin Water,damp the outfide of the Fire to keep the Heat in.

But you muft take fpecial Care that your I- xon burn not in tht Fire, that is, that it "do not run or melt ; for then your Iron will be fo brit- tle, that it will not endure Forging without breaking, and fo hard, that a File will not touch it.

Some Smiths ufe to ftrew a little white Sand upon the Face of the Anull alfo, when they are to hammer upon a Welding-heat * for they fay it makes the Iron weld^or incorporate the better.

If through Miftake, or ill management, your Iron be too thin, or too narrow towards one of the ends ; then if you have fubftance enough (and yet not too long) you may up-fet it, that is, take a Flame-heat^ and fet the heated end up- right upon the An‘vil^2inA hammer upon the cold end, till the heated end be beat, or into

the Body of your Work. But if it oe a long piece of Work, aud you fear its length may wrong the middle, you muft hold it in your left hand, and lay it flat on the An^il ; but ib as the heated end intended to be up-fet^ may lie a lit- tle over tho further fide of the Anojll^ and then withyom Hand-hammer in your right hand,beat ppon the heated end of your work , minding that every ftroak you take, you hold your work

smithing. II

ftiff againlt the Face of the Hammer. Afterwards fmooth it again with a Blood-rcd Heat.

If you are to Forge a Shoulder on one^ or each fide of your work^ lay the Shank of your Iron at the place where your Shoulder mull be on the edge of your Anvil { that edge which is moll con- venient to your hand) that if more Shoulders be to be made^turn them all fucceffively^ and ham- mer your Iron fo^, as that the Shank of the Iron that lies on the flat of the Anvil^ feel as well the weight of your Blows^ as the Shoulder at the edge of the Anvil ; for fliould you lay your blows on the edge of the Anvil only, it would inftead of flatting the Shank to make the Shoul- der^ cut your work through.

Your Work will fometimes require to have holes punched ink at the Forge, you mull then make a Steel Tunch to the fize and lhape of the hole you are tollrike, and harden the point of it without tempering, becaufe the heat of the iron will foften it fall enough, and fometimes too fall , but then you muft re-harden it ; then taking a Blood-heat of your Iron, or if it be very large, almoll a Fla?ne-heat ^ lay it upon your Aj^nvil^ and with your left hand, place the point of the Bunch where the hole muft be , and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand punch the hole ,* or if your work be heavy, you may hold it in your left hand, and with your Punch fixed at the end of a Hoof-ftick^ or fome fach Wood, hold the kick in your right hand, and place the point of your Bunch on the work where the hole muk be, and let another Man krike, till your Punch come pretty near the bottom of your work ,• which when it does, the fides of your work round about the hole, will rife from the Face of the Anvil^ and your Punch will print a bunching mark upon the hole oi 2, Bolfier

• ' a thick

12

SMITHING.

a thick Iron with a hole init^ and placing your Punchy as before^ ftrike it through. But you muft note^ that as oft as you fee your Punch heat^or change Colour^ you take it out of the hole, and pop it into Water to re-harden it, or eifeit will batter in the hole you intend to ifrike, and not only fpoil it feif, but the Work too, by running afide in the Work. Having punched it through on the one fide, turn the other fide of your work, and with your Plammer fet it flat and flraight, and with a Blood-heat punch it through on the other fide alfo ,* fo lhall that hole be fit for the Fiky or fquare bore, if the curiofity of your purpofed Work cannot allow it to pafs without filing. When your Work is Forged,do not quench it in water to cool it, but throw it down upon th.Q Floor y or Hearth y to cool of it felf ,* for. the quenching it in water will harden it,* as I /hall fhortly fliew you, when I come to the Tempering of Steel.

Of Brazing and Soldering.

YOU may have occafion fometimesto^r^sse

or Solder a piece of work ,* but it is ufed by Smiths only , when their work is fo thin , or fnall, that it will not endure Welding, To do tills, take fmall pieces of Brafs, and lay them on the place that muft be brazed, and ftrew a little Glafs beaten to powder on it to make it run the fooner, and give it a Heat in the Forge ^ till ( by fometimes drawing it a little way out of the Fire) you fee the Brafs run. But if your work be fo fmall, or thin, that you may fear the Iron will run as foon as the Brafs, and fo you lofe your work in the Fire, then you muft make a Loam of three parts Clay, and one part Horfe-dung, and after they are wrought and mingled very well together in your hands, wrap your work y/ith the Brafs, and a little beaten Glafs upon

SMITHING. i;

the place to be brazed clofe in the Loam^ and laying it a while upon the Hearth of the Forge to dry 3 put the lump into the Fire^ and blow the Bellovjs to it^till you perceive it have a full Heat^ that is^ till the Lump look like a well burnt Coal of Fire ; then take it out of the Fire^ and let it cool : Afterwards break it up^ and take outyour V/ork.

Thus much of Forging in general. It remains now^ that you know what forts of Iron are fitteft for the feveral UfeS;,you may have occafion to ap- ply them.

Of feveral Sorts ^j^Iron^ and their proper XJfes,

IT is not my purpofe^ in this place^to tell you how Iron is made^ I fhall defer that till I come to treat ofMettals^and their Refinings. Let it at prefent fatisfie thofe that know it not^ that Iron iSy by a violent Fire^ melted out of hard StoneS:, called Iron-Stones • of thefe Iron-Stones^ many Countries have great plenty. But becaufe it waftes fuch great quantities of Wood to draw the Iron fromthem^ it will nothin many Places^ quit cofl: to ufe them. In moft parts of England^ we have abundance of thefe Iron-Stones • but our Englijh Iron, is generally a courfe fort of Iron^ hard and brittle, fit for Fire-bars,and other fuch courfe Ufes,* unlefs it be about the Forreft of Deany and fome few places more, where the I- ron proves very good.

Swedijl} Iron is of all Sorts, the beft we ufe in England.lt is a fine tough fort of Iron, will beft en- dure the Hammer,and is fofteft to file,* and there- fore moft coveted by Workmen, to work upon.

Spanijh Iron, Would be as good Sv^ediflron^ were it not fubjecft to Red-fear^ (as Workmen phrafe it) that is to crack betwixt hot and cold. Therefore when it falls under your hands, you

inuft

H smithing,

muft tend it m^re earneftly at the Forge.But tho* it be good^ toughs foft Iron^yet for many Ufes^ Workmen will refufe it^ becaufe it is fo and un-evenly wrought in the Bars^that it cofts them a great deal of labour to fmooth it ; but it is good for all great works that require weldings as the bodies of Anvils^Sledges^ large Bell-clappers^ large Peftles for Mortars^ & all thick ftrongBars, c^c.But it is particularly chofen by Anchor-Smiths y becaufe it abides the Heat better than other Iron^ and when it is well wrought^ is tougheft.

There is fome Iron comes from Holland ( tho* in no great quantity) but is made in Germany. This Iron is called Dort Squares^ only becaufe it comes to us from thence^ and is wrought into fqiiare Bars three quarters of an Inch fquare. It is a bad^courfe Iron^and only fit for flight Ufes, as Window-Bars^ Brewers-Bars^ Fire-Bars^ &c.

There is another fort of Iron ufed for making of Wyery which of all Sorts is the foftefl: and tougheft : But this Sort is not peculiar to any Country^ but is indifferently made where any Iron is madej though of the worft fort ; for it is the firft Iron that runs from the Stone when it is meltings and is only preferved or the ma- king of JVyer,

By what hath been faid^ you may fee that the fofteft and tougheft Iron is the beft: : Therefore when you chufe Iron^chufe fuch as bows ofteneft before it breaks which is an Argument of tough- nefs ^ and fee it break found within, be grey of Colour like broken Lead, and free from fuch gliftering Specks you fee in broken Antimony y no flaws or divifions in it ,* for thefe are Argu- ments that it is found, and well wrought at the Mill.

Of

smithing.

0/ Filing in General,

HE feveral forts of Files that are in com-

1 mon ufe are the Square^ the Ilat^ the three Square y the half Round y the Round y the Thin Filcy &c. All thefe fhapes you muft have of feveral v:.esy and of feveral Cuts. You muft have them of feveral fzes^ as well becaufe you may have feve- ral fzes of work^as for that it fometimes falls out that one piece of work may have many parts in it joined and fitted to one another^fome of them great, and others fmail And you muft have them of feveral becaufe the Rough-tootF d File

cuts fafter than the Bafiard-tootF d Fiky the jF/we- toctlo d File fafter than the Smooth-tootF d File,

The Rough or Courfe-tootF d Rile f which if it be large, is called a Rubber) is to take off* the un- evennefs of your work which the Hammer made in the Forging,* the Bafiard-tootF d file is to take out of your work, the deep cuts, or file-ftrokes^ the Rough-file made ,* the Fine-tootF d file is to take out the cuts, or file>ftrokes,the Bafiard-filc made; and the Smooth-file is to take out thofe cuts, or file-ftrokes, th2itthQ Fine file made.

Thus you fee how the Files of feveral Cuts fuc- ceed one another, till your Work is fo fmooth ask can be filed. You may make it yet fmoother with Emericky Tripoli y &c. But of that in its pro- per place, becaufe it fuits not with this Seetion of Filing,

You muft take care when you ufe the Rough Fiky that you go very lightly over thofe dents the Hammer made in your work, unlefs your work be forged fomewhat of the ftrongeft, for the dents being irregularities in your work, if you fbould file away as much in them, as you do off the Eminencies or Rifings, your work (whether it be ftraight or circular) would be as irregular , as it was before you filed it : And

when

i6 S M IT H I N G.

when you fiic upon the Prominent^ or rifing Parts of your Work^ with your courfe cut Fik^ you mufc alfo take care that you hie them not more away than you need^ for you may eafily be deceived; becaufe the ccurfe File cuts deep, and makes deep fcratchesin the Work ; and be- fore you can take out thofe deep fcratches with your hner cut Files, thofe places where the Ri- iings were Vv^hen your work was forged, may become dents to your Hammer dents; therefore hie not thofe Rihngs quite fo low, as the dents the Hammer made, but only fo low as that the fcratches the B.ough-fde makes may lie as low,or deep in your work, as your Flammer dents do; for then, when you come with your fmoother Cut Files, after your B.ough-fik^ the fcratches of your Rcugh-fdey and your Hammer-lfrokes, or dents, may both come out together. But to do this with greater certainty, hold your File fo, that you may keep fo much of the length of your File as you can to rub, range, ( or, as near range as you canj upon the length t>f your; work; for fo ihall the File enter upo the fe- cond Rifing on your work, before it goes off the firft, and will flip over, and not touch the dent or hollow between the two Rihngs, tijl your Rifings are brought into a flraight line with your hollow dent. But of this more ihall be faid when I come to»the Pradice of ^Filing,, upon feveral particular forts of work.

If it be a fquare Bar, (or fuchlike) jwu are to file upon, all its Angles, or Edges, muft be left very fharp and ftraight. Therefore your Fice being well fet up, according to foregoing Di- redions, you muft in your filing athwart over the Chap of tiiQ VicCy be fure to carry both your hands you hold the file in, truly Horizontal, or flat over the Work; for Ihould you let either of

smithing. ly

vour hands mount, the other would dip, and the edge of that Square it dips upon would be taken off; and Ihould you let your hand move never fo little circularly, both the Edges you file upon ^.would be taken off, and the Middle of your intended Flat would be left with a Rifing on it. But this Hand-craft, you mult attain to by Pradice ,• for it is the great CuriO- fity in Filing.

If it be a round Piece, or Rod of Iron, you are to file upon, what you wxre forbid upon Square Work, you muft perform on the Round for you muft dip your Handle-hand, and mount your end-hand a little, and laying pritting near the end of your File to the Work, file circu- larly upon the Work,by mounting your Handle- hand by degrees, and dipping your End-hand, » in fuch manner, as when the Middle of your File comes about the top of your Work, your File may be fiat upon it, and as you continue your ftroaks forwards, ftiil keep your hands moving circularly till you have finilhed your full Stroak, that is, a Stroak the whole length of the File. By this manner of Circular filing, you keep your Piece, or Rod round ; but lliould you file flat upon the top of your v/ork, fo many times as you lhall remove, or turn your work in the Vicey fo many Flats , or Squares , you would have in your work ; which is contrary to your purpofe.

When you thruft your File forwards,Iean hea^ vy upon it, becaufe the Teeth of the File are made to cut forwards ,• but when you draw your File back , to recover another thruft, lift, or bear the File lightly juft above the work ,• for it cuts not coming back.

Thm much of FILING in General^

B

Of

Il

SMITHING.

Of the making of Hinge Sy Locks^ l(jys^ Screm^ and NutSy Small and Great.

Of Hinges.

Iis[ Fig.i. A the Tail^ the Crofs^ C D D D D E the Joint y D D D D the Pin-hole. When the Joint at C on the Tally is pind in the Joint at E in the Crofsy the whole Hinge is called a Crofs-Garnet.

Hingesy if they be fmall (as for Cup-board doors,* Boxes y &c.) are cut out of cold Plate I- ron with the (J) Cold-ChlJ[el y but you mark the out-lines of your intended Hinge y as Fig, i. the Crofs-Garnety either with Chalk , or elfe rafe upon the Plate with the corner of the Cold- ChiJJely or any other hardned Steel that will fcratch a bright ftroke upon the Plate ,* and then laying the Plate fiat upon the An^ily if the Plate be large, or upon the (f) Stake y if the Plate be fmall, take the Cold-Chijjel in your left hand, and fetthe edge of it upon that Mark, or Rafe, and with the Hand-hammer in your right hand, ftrike- upon the head of the Cold-ChiJJ'ely till you cut, or rather punch the edge of the Cold-Chif- fely almoft thro' the Plate in that Place, I fay, almoft through , becaufe , lliould you ftrike it quite through, the edge of the Cold-ChijJelvjo\i\6. be in danger of battering, or elfe breaking,* for the Face of the Anvil is hardned Steel, and a light blow upon its Face would wrong the edge of the Cold-ChiJ]el ; befides , it fometimes hap- pens, that tht Anvily or Stake y is not all over lb hard as it fhould be, and then the Cold-Chif- Jel would cut the Face of the Anvil y or Stakoy and confequently fpoll it : Therefore when the edge of the Cold-ChiJJel comes pretty near the

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=-^4^4^ 'V!

SMITHING. 19

bottom of the Plate, you muft lay but ligh^ blows upon the CoWChiffeli and yet you muft ftrike the edge of the Cold-ChiJJel fo near through the bottom of the Plate, that you may break the remaining fubftance afunder with your Fin- gers, or with a pair of Tlyersy or fometimes by pinching the Plate in the Vice^ with the Cut place clofe to the Superficies of the of

the Vice ; and then with your Fingers and Thumb, or your whole hanci, wriggle it quite afunder. But having cut one breadth of the Cold-C^ijfely remove the edge of it forward in the Rafe, and cut another breadth, and fb more it fucceffively, till your whole intended lhape be cut out of the Plate.

When you cut out an Hinge^ you muft leave on the length of the Plate A B in this Figure^ Plate enough to lap over lovthQ Joint I mean, to Turn^ or Double about a round Pin, lb big as you intend the Pin of your Hinge lliall be, and alfo Plate enough to IVeld upon the infide of the Hinge below the Tin-hole of the Joint that the Joint may be ftrong.

'Thefize, or diameter of the Tin-hole^ ought to be about twice the thicknefs of the Plate you make th.Q Hinge of, therefore lay a wyre of fuch a diameter towards the end B, in this Figure on

the Tail piece ^ a-thwart the Plate as CD, and Double the end of the Plate B, over the wyre to lap over it, and reach as far as it can upon the end A ^ then hammer the Plate that is lap’d o- ver the wyre clofe to the wre, to make the Tin-hole round j but if your Plate be thick, it will require the taking of an Heat to make the

B Z

20 smithing.

hammer the clofer to the wyre, and confequent- ly make the Fin- hole the rounder ; Your work may alfo fometimes require to be Screwed into the Vice^ with the doubled end up wards^ and the bottom fide of the wyre clofe againft the Chaps of the VicOy and then to hammer upon the very top of the Fin-hole to round it at the end alfo. When you have m^de the Fin-hole round in the infido;, take the Fin CD out of the Fin-hole y and put the Jomt-end of the Hinge into the Fire to make a V/eUing-heat; which when it hath/natch it quickly out of the Fire^ and hammer y or weldy the end B upon the Tail-piece A till they be in- corporate together. But you muft have a care that you hammer not upon the Plate of the Fin- hoky left you Hop it up^ or batter it ; when it is well Welded^ you muft again put in the Fin CD, and if it will not well go into the Fin- hole y (becaufe you may perhaps have hammer d o either upon it, or too near it^ and fo have fome- what clofed it ) you muft force it in with youf harmner I and if it require, take a BUod-heaty or a Flame-heat y of the yoint end ) and then force the Fin into the Fin-holcy till you fnd the Fin- hole is again round within, and that the Fivy or Wyre, turn evenly about within it.

Afterwards with a Funch of hardned Steel fas you were taught Fage ii. iz.) Funch the Nail-holes in the Plate; or if your Plate be very thin, you may punch them with a ( c) cold Funch. After all, Jmccth it as well as you can with your Hand-hammer ; take a Blccd-red-heaty if your work require it, if not, fmocth it cold ; fo will the Tail-piece be fit for the File. Double y and JVcld the Crofs-pieccy as you did the Tail-piece.

Having yom Flmge lit for the Fiky you muft proceed to make the Joint y by cutting a Notch in the Middle of the Fin-hok between D D in Plate 2. on the Crofsy as at E, and you muft cut down the Ends of the Fm-bok on the

Tail-

S M I T HI G. 21

Tail-fJecey as at D D, till the Joint at C fit ex- adly into the Notch in the Cr^s, and that when the Pin is put into the Pin-hole DD on the Crofs^ the Pin-hole ill the Tail-piece may alfo receive the Pin ; then by holding the Tail-piece in one Hand, and the Crojs in the other, double the Tail and Cro/s towards one another, to try if they move evenly and fmoothly without making on the Pin ^ which if they do, the Joint is made ,* if they do not, you muft examine where the Fault is, and taking the Pin out, mend the Fault in the Jomt,

Then File down all the Irregularities the Cold- made on the Edges of y our V/ork, and (if the Curiofity of Work require it) file alfo the outer Flat of your Work.But tho Smiths that make Quantities cA' Hinges ^ do brighten them y (as they call it) yet they feldom file them, but Grinde . them on a Grindftone till they become bright

Having finilhed the Joint the Pin in again ,* but take care it be a little longer than the Depth of the Joint y becaufe you muft batter the Ends _ of the Pin over the outer Edges of the Pin-hoky that the Pin may not drop out when either Edge of the Crofis is turned upwards.

The chiefeft Curiofity in the making thefe, and, indeed, all other Hinges is, i. That the Pin-hole be exahViy round, and not too wide for the Pin, 2. That the Joints are let exadlly into one another, that they have no play betv/een , them, left they fhake upv<^ards or downwards, nor yet are forced too hard into one another,left when they are nailed on the Door, the Joint be in Danger of Breaking. 5. That the Crefisy and the Tail Vie on the Under- fide exahfly fiat, for . ijiould they warp out of fiat when they arc nail- ed on, the Nails would draw the Johst a- wry,

. and not only make it move hard, and unevenly, but by oft Opening and Shutting break the ■ 4, If your Work be intended to be curious, the

B 5 true

SMI r H I N G.

true Square-fling the Upper-fide^ as you were caught Tage i6y 17. is a great Ornament. (a) Smiths call all Chijfels they ufe upon cold Iron, Cold-ChiJ]els.

Q) The Stake is a fmall Anvil ^ which either ftands upon a broad Iron Foot, or Bafis, on the Work-Bench j to remove as Occafion offers or elfe it hath a ftrong Iron Sfike at the Bot- tom, which Iron Spke is let into fome certain Place of the Work-Bench not to be removed.

Its Office is to fet fmall cold Work ftraight upon, or to Cut or Punch upon with the Cold- ChiJJel^ or Cold-Tunch,

Smiths call all Punches they ufe upon cold Iron, Cold-Punches.

If the Hingey on are to make be large,and Plate- Iron is not ftrong enough for it, you muft ipout of Flat Bar-Iron, as you were taught from Pagej to Page 12.

The manner of working Dufiails^ Fig. 5'. and, Side-hinges^ Fig. 6. &c. is (the fhape confidered) in all refpeds the fame I have here fliewed you in Crojs-Garmts ; but in thefe (or others ) you may (if your Work require Curiofity) inftead qf Douhlingfoi the Joints Forge the Round for the of full Iron, and* afterwards Drill a Hole tfubugh it, fox^hePin-hcde ; and by curious Fi- UnggPw, oxk them fo true into one another, that bom Tides of ihallfeem but one Piece ^

is I^ JiialJ jbe"w Tnore at large, when I come to' the making of Compaffes, and other jfoints for l^athematical 'inftruments.

Of hooks and Keys.

A S there are Locks (ox feveral Purpofe^ as Street-door Locks ^ 02i&edi Stock-Locks y Cham-^ ber-dgoT Locks yC^edi Spring-Locks j Ouphoard-Locksy Chef-Locks , Trunk-Locks y Pad-Locks , &C. So are there feveral Inyentions in Locks y I mean^ in

the

SMITHING. 2}

the Making and Contriving their IFards^ of cSards. But the Contrivances being almoft in- numerablCj according to the various Fancies of ^ Mcn^ fliall be referred to another Time to diC- courfe,* and I lhallnow fliew you the Working of a Spring-Lock y which when you know how to do, your Fancy may play with Inventions, as you belt like.

In Fig. 2. A A A A the Main-plate y B C the Kqj^- hole. E D E the Top-hooky E E Crofs-wardsy F the Bolty G the Bolt-Toe y or Bolt-Nah. H the Draw-hack Springy I the Tumbler y K the Bin of the Tumbler y L L the Staples.

Jn Fig. 3. A AAA thQ Co^er-Blatey B the Titty BCD the Main-war dy D D Crofs-wardsy E the Step-ward or Dap-ward.

In Fig. 4. A the Tin-hole y B the Step y or Dap- I wardy C the Hook-wardy D the Middlcy or Main Crofs-wardy EE the Crcfs-ward y F the Main-ward y G G Crofs-ward y H the Shanky I the Pof, or Bread y K the Bow-war dy L the BoWy BCDEEFGG the B/V.

Firft, Cut out of an Iron Plate with a Cold- ChiJJ'ely the Size and Shape of the Main-Tlatcy as you were taught to cut th^Crofs and Tail-piece of the Crofs-Garnet ; then confider what Depth you intend the Bit of the Key lliall have, and fet that Depth off on the Main-TlatCy by leaving about half an Inch of Plate between the Bottom of the Key-hoky and the Lower Edge of the Main-TlatCy as at C (or more orlefs, according to the Size of the Ldckd) Then meafure with a Pair of CompaJJes between the Bottom of the Bity and the Centre of your Key (or your intended Key) and fet thatdi- ftance off from C toB, near the Middle between the two Ends of the Main-T late y^nd wit' ^^the (a) trick-punchy make there a Mark to fet one Foot of your Compafes illy then opening your the Mi^d^® of the Bit of your intended Keyy as

24 M I T H I N G^

toD, defcribe the Arch E DE for the true Place the Top-hoop mud: ftand on.

Then cut one other Piece of Plate as A A A A in g. for a Co^er-plate^ with two Pieces one on each lide^ long enough to make Studs of to turn downwards^ and then outward again as F G Gj that the Co^er-plate may ftand olf the Main^^ flate^ the Breadth of the Bit of the Key j and at the two End of thefe Studs Punch hoies^ as G G, to Riuet the Cc‘ver-plate into the Main-plate. In the Middle of this Plate make the Cc7ttrej as at then open your Ccmpajjes to three Quarters the Length of the Bit^ and half the Diameter of the Shank of the Key^ and placing one Foot in the Point B^ defcribe with the other Foot the Arch D C D for the true Place of the Mam-war d^xh^n fet your Compajfes to a little more than half the Diameter of the Shank^ and place one Foot (as before) in the Centre B^ and with the other Foot defcribe the fmall Arch E, for the true Place the Step-ward y or (as fome call it) the Dap-ward muft ftand : So have you the true Places of the JVards, for ano rdinary Spring-Lock • you may ( if the Depth of your Bit will bear it) put more fPards in your Plates. But you muft note^ that the more IVardsyou. put the Vj^eaker you make yom Key ^ becaufe that to every JVard on the Plates ^ you muft make a Slit^ or JVard in the Bitoi thtKey y Sind the more Wards you makC;, the weaker the Iron of the Bit will be ; and then if the Bolt flioot noteafiiy backwards^ or forwards;, tho. Bit may be in Danger of Breaking.

Having rnarked on your Plates the Places of all your Wards^ you muft take thin Plate^ and with Hammering ancl Filing make them both (by Hammer -hard of equal Thicknels all the wayo UJhQnfiU one Edge very ftraight ^ by laying a ftraight Ruler juft within the Edge of it^and draw- ings or racing with a Point of hardned Steel, a bright Line by thefidepf the File away

" ■ ■ ^ the

smithing,

the Edge of the Plate to that Line^ then draw (as before) another ftraight Line Parallel to the firfl ftraight Line, or which is all one. Parallel to the filed Edge, juft of the Breadth you intend the TVarJs Ihall be, and file as before, only, you muft leave two, or fometimes three Stuh upon this Plate, one near each End, and the other in the Middle, to Rivet into the Main-flate^ to keep the Wrtrd fixt in its Place. Therefore you muft take care when you eled this thin Piece of Plate, that it be broad enough for the Wf,rdy and thefe Studs too. Then laying the Plate a-thwart the Tike of the Bickern , hold your Hand even with the Face of the Bickern^ and - hammer this Plate: down fomewhat by the fide of the Bikcy and by Degrees you may f with care taken) bring it unto a circular Form, juft of the Size of that Circle you defcribed on the Main-^late ; which when, you have done, you muft apply this IVard to the Circle you defcribed on the Main-plate ; fetting it in the Pofition you intend it fiiall be fixed, and marking with a Steel Point where the Studs ftand upon that Circle, in thofe marks Vunch^ holes to Rivet the Studs to. Work fo by all the other Wards, (

If you have a Tin to the Locky Bunch a Hole through the Centre on the Cover-plate ^ fomewhat fnialler than the Wyreyou are to make your Ti^ of, becaufe you may then file one End of the Pm away to a Shank^ which muft fit the fmaller Hole on the Plate, and the whole Thicknefs of the Tin will be a -Sholdery which will Eeep the Tin fteddy in the Centre-hole of the Plate, when the Tin is rivetted into the Plate. But becaufe there is fomb Skill to be ufed in Rivetting^ I fhail, before I procefd any farther, teach you

26

Rlvetting is to batter the Edges of a Shank o- ver a Plate, or other Iron, th^ Shank is let into, fo as the Plate, or other Iron, may be clinched dole, and fixed between the Battering at the End of the Shank and the Sholder, So that When you Rivet a Tin into a Hole, your Tin muft have a Sholder to it thicker than the Hole is wide, that the Sbolder flip not through the Hole, as well as the Shank ^ but the Shank of the Tin muft be exadly of the Size of the Hole the Shank muft be Rivetted into, and Ibmewhat longer than the Plate is thick ,• file the End of the Shank Eaty fo fliall the Edges of the End, the ea- filier batter over the Plate ,• then put your Shank into the Hole, wherein it is to be Rivetted^ but be fur^ you forced the Shank clofe up to the Sholder ; then turfi t||e Top of this 5 downr . wards (Plate and all) upon your Stake^ but lay ' it fo, as that the Sholder lie lblid,an4 the Shanky at the fame time, ftand diredly upright, and with your left Hand, keep your Work bearing hard upon the Flat, or Face of the Stake^^ Then holding your Hammer in your Right-hand, hold the Edge of the of it Dripping a-flope from the Right-hand outwards, andf lay pretty light Blows upon the Edge of the End of the Shanky turning with your Left-hand your Work round to the Face of the Hammer ^ you have battered

the Edges of the Shank quite round a|>out ,* but this is fcldom done, with once turning your Work about,* therefore you may thus work it round again and again, till you find it is pretty well Rivetted; then lay heavier Blows upon it, fometimes with the Face^ fometimes with the Ten of the Hammer y till the End of the Shank is bat- tered effedually over the Plate.

One main Confideration in Rivetting is, that ihe Tin you riwt in, ftand upright to the

' " ' qx

a 27

or other Iron you nW it upon; for if it do not Hand upright, y<>u will be forced to fet it up- right, after it is ri'vettedy either in the Vke^ or with your or with your and that

may, if your Plate be thin, bow it, or if it be thick, break the Shank, or elfc thtSholder of your and fo you Ibfe your Labour, and fome- times fpoil your Work.

Another Confideration is, that when you ri^uet 2. Tin to any Plate, and you fear it may after- wards twill about by fome force that may be offered it, you muft, to provide againft this Danger, file the Shank you intend to Ri^ety ei- ther Square, or Triangular, and make the Hole in the Plate you r/W it into, of the fame Size and Form, and then rivet in the Shanky as be- fore. There are two ways to make your Hole, Square or Triangular, one is by filing it into thefe Forms, when it is firft Punched round ; the other by making a Tunch of Steel, of the Size and Shape of the Shank you are to rivet y and punching that Tunch into the Plate, make the lame'Form.

Now to return where I left off. ThePi^jand Shanks t)f thefe PFards muft be made of a long Square Form, becaufe, (the Plates of the Wards being thinj ibould you make them no broader than the Plate is thick, the Studsy or Shanks would be too weak to hold the Wards, therefore you muft make the Rivetting-fijank three or four times, or fometimes more, as broad as the Plate is thick, and then rivet them in, as you were taught juft now.

Then place the Cover-flate upon the Main- flateyfo as the Centre of the Ciiver-platey mayftand direcftly over and againft the Centre of the Maw- flate, and make marks through the Hole G G, of the Studs of the Cover-Plate upon the Main- fiate^mA on thofe Marks Punch holes, and fit two Ffwnntb them, pfaftenthe Ow-p/jifeon to

sS . smithing,

the Maln-^latCy but you muft not yet rivet them down^ till the Key-hole be made ^ becaufe this Cover-flate would then flop the Progrefs.of thg File through the Main-flatey when you file the Key-hole, When you have placed the Cover-plate upon the Main-plate^ and fitted it on with Vins^ fo, as you may take it off, and put it on again, as your Work may require, you muft Vmch the Key-hole^ or rather drill two Holes clofe by one another, if the Key-hole falls near the Wards^ be- caufe Punching may be apt to fet the Wards out of Form, and with fmall Files^ file the two Holes into one another, to make the Hole big enough to come at it with bigger Filesy and then file your Key-hole to your intended Size and Shape.

The Key -hole being finifhed , forge your Key^ as you were taught. Page 7. and if your Key is to have a Pin-hole, drill the Hole in the Middle of the End of the Shank, then file the Wards, or Slits in the Bit with thin Files ; yet fometimes Smiths Punch, or cut them with a Cold-ChiJJel,at the fame Diftances from the Middle of the Pin-hole in the End of the Shank ( which is the fame Centre, which was made before,in the Main-plate on the Cover-plate) which you placed the Wards at, from the Centre of the Main and Cover-plate. But before you file thefe Wards too deep into the Bit of the Key, make Trials, by putting the Bit into the Key-hole , whether the Wards in th.Q Bit, will agree with the Wards on the Plates, which if they do, you may boldly cut them to the Depth of the Wards on the Plate ,• if not, you muft alter your Courfe till they do ; but you muft take great Care in Cutting the Wards down ftraight, and fquare to the Sides of the Bit ; for if they be not cut down ftraight, the Wards on the Plates, will not fall in with the Wards in the Bit of the Key ; and if they be not Square to the Sides of the , the Bit will not only be weaker than it need be, but it will

smithing. 29

ftew unhandfoinely,and like ^ Botch to the Eye.

The CrojI and Hock-wards is made^or^ at leaft, entred at the Forge^ when the Iron hath a Blood, oralmoft a Flume Heat, yet fometimes Smiths do it on cold Iron^ with a thin Chiffel, as you was taught Fage ii. 12. But you mull take care that your Chiffel be neither too thick , or too broady for this Punching oiWardsis only to give the thin Entrance to the Work,* which Entrance when you have, you may eafily file your Crof, or Hook-wards, wider or deeper,as your Work may require; hut iiyom ChiJ] el hQ too broad, or too thick, it will make the Wardsin the too long, or too wide, and then (asifaid before) the Bit of your Key will prove weaker than it needs to be.

Having made the Wards on the Plate , and in the Bit of the Key, you mufl: Forge the Bolt of a confiderable Subftance, Thick and Square at the End that Ihoots into the Stafle in the Frame of the Door, that it may be llrong enough to guard the whole Door ; but the reft oith& Bolt that lies between the two Staples on the Main-plate, may be made very thin inwards, that is, the Side that lies towards the which becaufe it can- not be feen when the is fixed upon the Plate,

I have made a Figure of it, and turned theinfide to View, as in Fig. 4. where you may fee , that the End A, hath a confiderable Subftance of Iron to guard the whole Door, as aforefaid, and B is a Square Stud, which doth as well keep the Outfide flat of the Bolt on the Range, as ferve for " a Stud for the Spring H in Fig. 2. to prels hard againft, and llioot the Bolt forwards : This Bolt muft be wrought ftraight on all its Sides, except the Topfide, which muft be wrought ftraight only as far as the SholderG, called the Toe, or Nah of the Bolt, which rifes , as you fee in the Figure, confiderably high, above the Straight on the Top of the Bolt : The Office of this Nab,

is

jo ' ^ 1 N G.

is to receive the BottcAn of the Bit of the Ke/^ when in turning it about, it flioots the Bolt back- wards or forwards.

Having forged 2Lndi filed the Bolt^ you muft fit the Hollow-fide of it towards the Main-f^ate^ at that Diftance from the Key-hole^ that when the Key is put into the Key-hole^ and turned cowards the the Bottom of the Bit may fall almoll to the Bottom of the Nab^ and flioot the Bolt back fo much, as it needs to QntQv thtStafle in the Door-frame. And having found this true Place for the Bolty you muft with fquare juft fit to contain the Bolt with an eafie Play, faften thefe Staples yhyRivetting them with th^Bolt within them, one near the Bolt end, the other near the Nab end, as at L L to the Main-plate.

Then Bunch a pretty wide Hole in the Main- plate^ as at K, to receive a ftrong P/w, and file a Sholder to the Shank of the Bin that goes into the Plate. ThisBin is C2i][QAthQ Bin of the Tumbler ; the Tumbler is marked I, which is a long Piece of Irony with a round Hole at the Top to fit the Bin of the Tumbler into, that it may move upon it, as on a Joint y and it hath an Hook returning at the Lower End of it, to fall into the Breech of the Boky and by the Spring H forces the Bolt forwards, when it is fliot back with the Key. This Spring is made of Steel, and afterwards temper’d ('as I fiiall ihew you in proper Place, j It is fixed at the Bottom of the Main-plate y by two fmall Shanks proceeding from that Edge of thQ Spring that lies againft the Main-platCy as at O O : Thefe Shanks are to be rivetted (as you were taught even now ) on the other Side of the Main-plate.

All things being thus fitt^A-y punch an Hole on each Corner of the Main-plate for Nails to enter^ that muft nail the Lock to the Door. Or if you intend to ferew your Lock on the Door yjOM muft make wide Holes, big enough to recoivc the

Sbmk

T H J jNTC?. - 31

Laft of all, rlvtt down your C^er’-fJ^XpO thi^ Main-plate , and file your Key^ and polif It too, if you will 5 fo fliall the Loch ^:pd be finifted. /

(^) Kfriek^’puncbfis a Piece of temper’d Steel, with a round Point at one End, to prick a round Mark in cold Iron.

(h) Bammer-hardfis when you harden Iron, or Steel, with much hammering on it.

The making of Screws and Nuts.

T He Shank of the Screw for Doors,and many other Pujmofes, vm&ht forged fquare near the He<8!4>^ecauie it muft be let into a Square-hole, that it may not twift about when the Nut is turned about hard upon the Screw-pin. Therefore take a Square-^bar, or Rod of Iron, as near the Size of the of the Screw-^pin as you can, and

taking a F/4:^«-/^e^rofit, lay fo much of this Bar as you intend for the Length of the Shank^ with one Square-fide flat, upon the Hither-fide of the Anvil y and hammer it down to your intended Thicknefi: But have a care you do not ftrike your Iron on this Side the Edge of the Anvil y left you cut the Iron,as I told you Vage ii. Thus, at qncQy you will have two Sides of your Shank forged y,: Undpr-fide made by the Anvil^ and

the Upper-fide beaten flat with th^ Hammer: The Head will be in the main Rod of Iron ,vthen if your Iron grows cold, give it another Heaty and lay one of the unwrought Sides upon the Hither-fide of the Anvil y Juft to the Heady and hammer^^]\2it down, as before, fo lhall the two other Square-fides be made,* then hammer down the Gorners of fo much of this as you in-

tend for the Screw-piny and round it, as near as you cani with the Hammer *y fet then the Qhiffel to the Thicknefs you intend th^Head fliall have, ^nd ftrike it about half dirough, then turn the Sides fticccffively, arid cut each Side alfo half iriroughi till it be quite cut off. If the SholJer be not; fquare enough, hold it in your

7‘vno'^^

C

^2 smithing.

Tongs j and take another Heat'^ and with Ipeed {^left your Work cool) fcrew the Sbank into the Fice^ fo as the ShoUer may fall flat upon the Chap of the Vice ^ then hammer upon the Head^ and fquare the ShoUer on two Sides, do the like for fquaring the other two Sides. This was,in part, taught you before, in Tage ii. but becaufe the cutting this Iron Rod, or Bar, juft above the ShoUer makes the Head^ and for that I did not mention it there, I thought fit (fince the Purpofe required it) to do it here : The Forging of the Nuts arc taught before, Fage ii. 12.

Hsiving forged and filed yonr Shank fquare, and the Head either Square or F^ound, as you intend it fliail be, file alfo the Screnj-pn^ from the Ri» lings and dents left at the Forge ,* and file it a little Tapering towards the End, that it may enter the Scrcw-flate ; the Rule how much it muft be Ta- pering is this, confider how deep the Inner Groo- 'ves of the Screw-plate lie in the outer Thrcds^ and file the End of the Screw-pin fo much fmaller than the reft of the Screw-pin^ for the outer Threds of thtScrew-plate muft make the Grccues on the Screw<- piny and the Grooves \ni\iQ Screvj-platCyWdlmakQ th^Threds on the Screw-pin. Having fitted your felf with a Hole in your Screw-plate ( that is, fuchaHole whofe Diameter of the hollow Groc-> 'vesy Ihall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw- piny but not fuch a Hole, whofe Diameter of the outer Thredsy Ihall be equal to the Diameter of the Screw-piny for then the Screw-plate will indeed turn about the Screwi-piny but not cut any Groo^esy or Threds in it) fcrew the Shank with the downwards in the Viccy fo as that the Screw- pin may ftand diredly upright , and take the Handle of the Screw-plate in your Right-hand,and lay that Hole flat upon th.t Screw-pin yand^xtFs it very harddov/n over it, and turn the Screw-plate evenly about with its Handle towards you,from the Right towards the Left-hand, fo Ihall the outer

Threds

SMITHING. 33

Thrili of tlie Screw-plate cut Grooves into the Screws piv^ and the fiibffaiice of the Iron on the Screws pvu vvill fill up the Groo w of tliQ Screw-plate^ and be a Thred upon the Screvj-pw. But take this for Caution, that, as I told you, you inufl not make your Screw-piv too fmall, beeaufe the Screw-plate w ill not cut it, fo if you make it too big (if it do en- ter the Screw-plate where it is Taper) it will en^ danger the breaking it, or, if it do not break it, yet the Screw-plate wiH, after it gets a little' below^ the Tapering, go no farther, but work and wear off the Thred it made about the Tapering.

To fit the Pm therefore to a true lize, I, in my Pradife, ufe to try into what hole of the Screws flate^ the Tap or place of the Tap^ (if it beata- \ pering Tap^} I make the AW with, will juii: Hide through^ {Threads and all (which generally in molt Screw-plates is the hole next above that to nfed) for then turning my Ptn about in that hole^ if the Pin be irregularly filed^ or but a little too big on any part of it, the Thrcds of that Hole will cut fmall marks upon the Pin^ on the irregular places, or where it is too big fo that afterwards fiimg thofe Marks juft off, I do at once file my truly round, and fmall enough to fit the H le I make my Screw-pin with.

As the Hole of the Screws plate mulL be fitted to the Scre7p-ph^ fo itxul}: the Screw-tap makes tlie Screw in the Nut^ be fitted to to the round hole of the Nnti^ but that T?/?muft be of the fame lize of your Scre7v-pin too, which you may try by the fame hole of the Screw ’Opiate you made the Scrap-- pm with. Screw the Nut in the Vice diredly fla4 that the hole may. Hand upright, and put the Screw-* tap upright in xh^hoh ; then if your Scnju-tap have din handle^ turn it by the hard round

in the Hole^ fo will the Screw-tap work it felf into the Holfj and make Grooves in it to fit the Thredsot

Q th€

34 S M IT H 1 N G.

the Screw-pin. But if the Screw-tap have no han^ dky then it hath its upper end filed to along fquare, to fit into an hollow fquare, made near the handle of the Screw-plate ^ but that long fquare hole, o- ver the long fquare on the top of the Tap^ and then by turning about the Screw-plate^ you will al- fo turn about the Tap in the hole^ and make Grooves and Jhreds in the Nut.

But though fmall Screws are made with Screw- plates^ yet great Screws^ fuch as are for Tices, Hot- PreJJa , Printing-Freffe.^^ &c. are not made with Screw-plates., but muft be cut out of the main Iron, with heavy blows u^onaCold-ChilJsL The man-* ner of making thein^ is as follows.

The Rules and manner of Cutting Worms upon great Screws.

^ I ^ H E Threds of Screws., when they are bigger I than can be made in Screw-plates., are call’d Worms* They confift in length, breadth and depth ; the length of a Worm begins at the one cW of the Spindle., and ends at the other ^ the breadth of the Worm, is contain’d between any two Grooves on the Spindle., viz. The upper and un« der Groove of the Worm, in every part of the Spindle the depth of the Worm, is cut into the Diameter of the viz. The depth, between

the outfide of the Worm, and the bottom of the Groove.

The depth ought to be about the one feventb part of the Diameter, oneach fide the Spindle:

You ought to make thd Groove w ider than the Worm is broad, becaufe the Worm being cut out ©f the. fame intire piece with the Spindle, will bo as flrong as the Worm in the Nut, tho’ the Worm on the Spindle be fmaller ; for you cannot come at the Worm in the Nut, to cut it with Files, as you may the Spindle., and therefore you muft either

Tur?}

SMITHING. 35

Turn up a Rod of Iron, to twifl: round about the Grooves on the Sfwdk^ and then take it ofi^ and Brax^e it into the ZVV, or elfe you muft Cafl a Nut of Brafs upon the Spindle., which \7ir1 neither way be fo ftrong as the IVorm cut out of the whole Iron, by fo much as Brafs is a weaker Mettal thaa Iron, and therefore it is that you ought to allow the Worm in the Nut^ a greater breadth than the Worm on the Spindle., that the ftrength of both may, as near as you can, be equaliz’d ; for both being put to equal force, ought to have equal Ilrength. The Worm may very well be the one feventh part fmallef than the Groove is wide, as aforefaid.

Having confider’d what breadth the Worin on the Spindle fhall have, take a fmall thin Plate of Brafs', or Iron, and file a fquare notch at the end of it, jiifc fo wide, and fo deep, as yonr F/orm is to be broad and deep, and file the fides of the Plate that this notch ftands between, jull: to the wddth of the Groove. This Plate, mull be a Ga^e tdfile your Worm and Groove to equal breadth by ^ then draw a flraight and upright Line the vs^hole length of the Spindle j divide from this line the Circumference of the whole Spmdh into eight equal Parts, and through thofe Divifions, draw feven Lines more parallel to the firfl: Line ^ then open your Co?n^ pajfies jufl to the breadth of one Worm., and one Groove., and fet off that diftance as oft as you can^ from the one end of the Spindle to the other, (but I Ihould firlt have told you, that the end of your Spindle mult be. fquare to the oiitfide) andjwith a Vrick-Vunchj make a mark to every fetting off on that line ; Do' the like to all the other Itraight upright Lines. Note, that you may chufe one of thefe eight upright Lines for the firft, and make the next towards your left Hand, the fecond (but then the frft muft: Hand towards you) and the

C 2 ' ' next

3^ SMITHING.

next that, the third, and fo on. And the top mark of every one of thefe upright ftraight; Lines, fliall be call’d the firft Mark, the next un- der that the fecond Mark, the tliird, the third Mark, and fo downwards in Order and Num- ber.

Having marked one of thefe eight Lines at the top of the Spindle, to begin the winding of the J^orm at, wdth a Black lead Pencil^ draw a line from that Mark to the fecond Mark, on the next npright Line towards the left liand, from thence continue drawing on with your Pencil to the third Mark, on the third upright Line, draw on ftill to the fourth Mark, on the fourth upright Line, and {b onwards, till you have drawn over the eight Ihraight Lines, which when you have done, you mull: ftin continue on, drawing downwards to each lower Mark on each fucceffive upright Line, till you have dravv/n yonr IVorm from end to end : Then examine, as well as you can, by your Eye, whether the IVorm yon have carried on from Mark to Mark with the Black-kd Pencil, do not break into Angles, which if it do any where, you mull mend it in that place: Then with the edge of an half-round File^ file a fmall Line in the Black-lead Line, and be fure that the Line you zxt filings rim exadly through all the Marks that the Black-lead Pencil fhould have run through (if it did not, for want of good gui- dance of the Hand.) This Imall Line is only for a guide to cut the Groove down by ^ for the making of a Screw is, indeed nothing elle, but the cut-' ting the Groove down, for then the IVorm remains : But you mull not file in this fmall line, but leave it as a guide to lie on the middle of the IVorm (as I faid before) : Therefore to cut down the Groove, take a Cold Chifel, fomewhat thinner than you intend the Groove fliall be wide, vi:^. ;about

S IT H I N G. 37

the thicknefs of the breadth of the Wortn^ and, with heavy blows, cut out the Groove pretty near. The reafon why you ftiould not offer to cut the Grooves to their full wedth at the firll, is, becaufe your Hand may carry the Cold-Chijjel fomewhat awry, and fhould yonr Cold-Chijfel be as thick as the Groove is wide, you could not fmooth the Ir- regularities out, without making the nar- rower than you intended it : Then with a Flat-file open and * fmooth the Groove, filmg in the middle between the two next fine Lines cut by the half^ round File, till you have wrought the Swindle from end to end, fo (hall the TForm remain. But you muff: not exped, that though the Groove be cut, it is therefore finifhed, for now you muff: begin to ufe the thin Vlate-Gage, and try firH, whether the Worm have equal breadth all the way. Secondly, whether the Grove have equal breadth all the way. And Thirdly, whether the Groove have equal depth all the way ^ and where ever you find the Worm too broad, you muff: file it thinner, and where the Groove is not deep enough, file it deep- er ^ therefore in cutting down the Groove ^o\^ may obferve, that if, at firlt, you file the Wor7n never ib little too narrow or the Groove never fo little too deep, you (hail have all the reit of the Worm or Groove to file over again becaufc the whole Worm muff; be brought to the breadth of the fmalleff: part of it, and the w hole Groove to the depth of the deepeff: place all the way, efpe- cially if the Nut be to be Cafi in Brafs upon the Spindle " becaufe the Mettal running clofe to the Spindle will bind on that place, and not come oft' if, but if the Nut be not to be Cafi in Brafs, brt only hath a Worm brazed into ip, this nicenefs ^ notfo abfolutely neceffary, becaufe that i . fttff: Turned up, and bowed into the Grooves o. the Spindk, and you may try that before it

C 2 Fi 'i . Xj a

SMITHING.

Braz'd in the Nut^ and [if it go not well about^ you may mend, ot botch it, either by Hammering or Filmg, or both.

The manner of CaJIing the Nut upon the Spin-- dle^ 1 fhall Ihew when I come to the Cafling of Met^ tali ^ and the manner of Brazing hath been Taught already. Num, h foL 12, ij. ^

If your Spindle is to have three or four Worms winding about it, as Coining-Prejfes and Printing-^ Frejffes have, that they may not wear out too faft, you mull divide the Circumference into three or four equal Parts, and having ftraight upright Lines^, drawn as before, begin a Worm at each of thofe three, or four Divifions, on the Circumfe- rence, and confidering the breadth of your Worm and width of your Groove^ meafure that width as oft as you can on all the upright Lines, and ma- ' king Marks on thofe at each Setting off, draw as before, a Line from the end of the Spindle, on the hrff upright Line to the Mark below it, which is the fecond Mark on the fecond upright Line^ from thence to the third Mark, on the third up- right Line, and fb on to the other end of the Spindle, Having drawn the frll Worm, work the other Worm as this.

Thus much may at prefent fuffice for great Screws.

MECHJ-

' \

3 9

SMITHING^

%9

mecbanick exercises

O R,

The Dodtrine of Handy-Works

Viz. The milking of Jacks and Bullet-^Molds, the tmfting (f Irony and Cafe-hardning ity mth the ufe of fome Tools not treated of be^ fore : Aljo of the fever al forts of Steely the manner of Softmngy Hardning afid Temr fering them*

Of Jacks.

Fig. I . is calFd a Worm-Jack. A B the Forg- fide, A C the Rack-fide^ A A the Tof -piece ^ B C the Bottom-piece^ altogether the Jack- frame^ E E K the Main-Sf indley NON the Main-Wheel and Barrely O the Barrel^ D the W'tnd- up-piece^ faflned into the Barrel^ FF the Worm^ T^beel Spindle y G the Worm-wheel^ Q, the Worw- Nuty H the Worm^ R the Stud of the Worm-Spindle^ P the Worm-Loopy L the Wind-up-piece^ M the Winch or Winder or Handley the Iron part is the Winder^ the Wood the Handle, S the Eye of the Winder y 1 1 the Fly^ T the Socket of the Fljy V the Struck-Wheely X the St ayes or Back fa jlnings.

Firft you are to Forge the Jack-frame, and on the left fide of the Fore fide, a Shank for the Stud of the Worm-fpind.e, as you are taught Numh, I. fol. Sy9yio, 11,12. and then file it as you were Numh» I. foL 14, 1 5, 16’.

C 4

The

SMITHING.

The top and bottom Pieces are let into fqiiare holes at the ends of the Fore and Backfide. But you mull Forge the top and bottom Pieces with two fmall Squares towards the ends of them, and two round ends for Screw-pins^ beyond thofe fquares. The fmall fquares are to be fitted into fquare holes into' the Fore and Eackfides^ and the round Screw- fins are to make Screws of, to which a fquare Nut is to be fitted to draw the top and bottom Pieces clofe and right up to the infides of the Fore and Backjides. The manner of Filing of thefe Ends you were, in part, taught NumbAl. fol. and Numb. I. foL 29* but another vvay is by try- ing your Work with an Inllrument, call’d by Workmen, a S^uarCj as you fee defcrib’d in this Figure.'

B

Of the Square and itsVfe.

The fides ABG are call’d the Outer-fiuare the fides D E-F the hner-fjuare. Its Uie is thus. If your Work, as in this Cafe, be an Outer-f^uare^ you rnuil life the Imer-fjuare^ D E F I>l to try it by ^ applying either the fide ED or D F (but fup- pofe the fide ED) to one of the fides of your Work, chufe the fiattefl and traeil WTonght ; if neither of the fides be flat, make of them flat, as you were taught Numb, I. fol l y, 16. if then you find the fide D F of your S&juare lie all the way even upon the adjoining fide of your Work, you may con- clude thofe fides are Square ^ but if the adjoining fide of your Work comply not all the way with the adjoining fide of the Square^ you mufi: file a- way your Work where the Square rides upon it, till the whole fide be wrought to comply with

the

S M IT H I KI G. 41

the adjoiniag fide of the Square^ that is, till both the Tides of your Work agree with both the Tides of the Squares^ when they are appli’d to one another. Having tried two Tides Square, make a third fide of your Work Square, by applying one of the Tides of the Square to ORt of thofe fides of your Work, that are already made fquare, and as before, try the third untry’d fide, and make that Square ^ and by the Tame Rule make the fourth fide fquare.

If the Work you are to file be an hollow Iquarc, you muft apply the outer Square A B C to it, and try how, when one fide of the Square^ is applied to one fide of your Work, the other fide of your Work agrees with the other fide of the Square ; which if it do, all is well : But if the Square znd. the Work comply not with one another, you muft file the Work where it bears the Square off. But to return where I left.

Having made theft two ends Iquare, you muft fit the length of them to the thickneTs of the For^ and BackfiJes into which they are to enter^ but lb as the Squares be not full To long as to come quite thro’ the Fore and Backfides^ left when the Nuts are Tcrew’d on the Screw pins that are at the ends of theft Squares, they fcrew full up to the Squares, and bear againft the corners of them i which if they do, the Nuts will not draw the Fore and Back^ fides cloft againft the flioulder of the Squares, on the top and bottom Pieces^ and then the whole Jack Frame will not fraud faft and firm together.

But before you fit this Frame thus together, you muft confider the Diameter of the Main wheels that you may Pnuch round Holes in the Fore and Backfides to enter the Main-fpindle. Therefore 0- pen your CompaTs to half the intended Diameter cf the Main-wheel^ and half a quarter, or an whole quarter of an Inch more for play, between

the

41 ^ smithing:

the Semi-diameter of the main Wheels and the up- per flat of the bottom ?me^ and fet that diltance off from the upper flat of the bottom Tiece^ on the Fore and Backfi^ies^ and with a round Punch, feme- what finaller than the intended lize of the main SpmMej Punch Holes at that fetting off Your Punch mufl: be fmaller than the main Spindle^ be- caufe the holes may perhaps not be fo exaftly round, or Punch’d fo truly upright, or perfeftly linooth as they ought to be ; and Ihould you make the holes fo wide at firfl: as they need to be, you could not mend them, without making them wider. Thefe holes mull be Punch’d at the Ftra or Forge (as Smiths fay, when they take an Beat of their Work to Punch it ) becaufe the Fore and the Backfides are too (Irong (as Smiths fay) that is, too thick to Punch with the Cold Vmek The way of Punching them you were taught Numb. I. fol. 11,12. Belides a Cold Bunch is commonly made fiat at the bottom, and therefore does not prick an Hole, but cut an Hole (if the Iron be not too ftrong) for that flat bottom, and the up- right fide about it, met in an Angle or Edge at the bottom, which Edge, by the force of the Hammer, cuts the Iron (if it be not too ftrong) when it is laid upon a Boipier^ as it is defcrib’d Numb. I. foJ. 1 2. and fhould you cut out Ib much Iron in the Fore and Backfides., as would entertain the main Spindle (it being thick) you will make the Fore arid Backfides too wide •, therefore as I faid, the Holes mult be prickt in the Fore and Backfides at the Fire or Forge^ which with a fliarp pointed Bunch is fooner done^ nor does pricking diminifiithefubftanceorllrengthof the Iron, but makes it fweU out at the fides, and retain both fubftance and ftrength. The irregularity or fwel- ling out that this Punching makes on the flats of tne Fore and Backfides-, 3^011 muft Hammer down

again

SMITHING. 45

again with almoft a Blood-redr heat^ I lay, almoft a Blood-red-beat ^ becanfe, fliould you tahe too great an Heat^ you may inake the Fore and Eackfidet ftretch, and lb put the whole Jack-frame out of order.

Having punch’d the Holes for the main Sfindle^ you miift Punch the Holes in the Fore and Back-^ fides for the Worm-wheel Spindle^ as you Punch the Holes for iht mam Spindle ; but thefe mull be fmall Holes, to entertain the fmall Ends or Pins of thb Worm-wheel Spindle*

Thefe Holes thus Punch’d, may perhaps ndt bd exadly round or fit your fize, nor will they be finooth enough within 5 therefore,^ with a ^S^.uare^ bore^ you mull ^open* them wider to your lize, and that opening them* in the infide, will both round and fmooth them.

You mull alfo Punch a Iquare hole towards the top of the Foref de^ for the Shank of the Worm^ Loop.

Then- Forge and fit in yo\xv Main-wheel Spindle^ and your Worm-whed Spindle^ which Spindles mult both be exadly llraight between the corners of their two ends (unlefs you like to have Moldings , for Ornaments on them} and Forge a Square to- wards the ends of both the Spindles, to fit into a Iquare hole in the middle of the Crofs of their Wheels, and leave fobHance enough for a Ihoulder beyond the Iquare, to Hop the l^tiare hole in the Crofs of thQ Wheels from Hiding farther on the Spindle, and you muH leave fobftance of Iron e* nough to Forge the of the Worm-wheel the other end; But in this, and indeed in all other Forging remember fe 1 told you Numh. L fol. 9 ) that it behoves you to Hammer or Foro- 'e your Work as true as you can^ leall it coft you great pains at the F/Vfi ^ -

Then

44 S M IT H I IS! G.

Then Forge the Worm-fftndle^ which is all the way round and ftraight, unlefs you will have Moldings for Ornaments Cas aforefaid) upon the Shank of it: But you mull befure to Forge fubltance enough for the Worm to be cut out of it.

The Main and Worm-wheels are Forg’d round and flat.

The manner of Forging thefe Wheels (which in Smiths Language is> turning up the Wheels j is, lirft:, to draw out a fquare Rod (as you were taught Numh. 1. fol 9. among the feveral Heats ef hon) fbmewhat thicker than you intend your Wheel ftall be*, but it muft be almofl: as thin on one fide, as you intend the inner edge of the Wheel fhall be, and the oppofite to it above twice that thicknefSj for the outer edge of the Wheel : the reafon you will find by and by. Having drawn from your fquare Rod a convenient length, almofl: three times the Diameter of your in- tended Wheel, you mufl: take almofl: a Flame< heaty and Hammer all along the whole length up- on the thick edge, fb will you find the long Rod by this Hammering, turn by degrees rounder and rounder in, upon the thin edge, which you Ham- mer’d not upon, till it become a Circle, or pretty near a Circle. But you mufl: make it fomewhat more than a Circle, for the ends mufl lap over one anotlier, that they may he weUed upon one another.

Thus you may fee the Reafon for making the outer edge of the Rod thick, and the oppo- fite Edge thin *, for your Hammering upon the outer edge only, and not on the inner, makes the outer edge a great deal thinner, and at the fame lime makes the Wheel broader.

The

L

SMITHING. 45r

The Reafon why I told yon, you fhould draw fourth the Rod to almoft three times the Dia- meter of the Wheel, and not to the Geome- trical proportion *, is, becaufe that in Hammer- ing upon it to make it round, the Rod will ftretch fo confiderably, that it will be long enough to make a Wheel of your intended Diameter , and mofl: commonly fomewhat to Ipare. But to return.

Before yon take a nodding Heat, as by Numk I. fol. p, lo, you mult flatten the two ends that are to be Ti^elded together, to a little more than half their thicknefs, that when they are lapt over one another, and welded together, they maybe no thicker than the other part of the Wheel.

If the Wheel be not turned up fo round, that with a little labour you may mend them at the Vice > you mull with Blood red Heats Hammer them round upon the or Bickern of the Anvel^ holding with your Tongs the inner edge of the Wheel upon it, and Hammering upon the outer edge of the Wheel., till the Wheel be fit for the Vice : Their infldes mull: be divided into four equal Parts or four ^ Duff tail notches to be fild into them. The Dufftail notches are cut in the inner edge of the Wheel., fomewhat more than a quarter of an Inch deep, and fpreading fomewhat wider towards the outer edge. The notches are to re- ceive the four ends of a Crof: Forg'd fomewhat thicker towards the ends than the thicknefs of the Wheel., and muft: be filed outer Dufftails, to let exadly into the inner Dufftail notches made in the infide of the Wheel. They mull be Forg’d thicker than the Wheel, becaufe they muft batter over both the flat fides of the Wheel, to keep the Wheel ftrongand fteady upon the ^ andfometimes (for more fecurity) they are brazed into the Wheel that is but feldom ) the middle of this Croft

SMITHING.

is made broad, that , when the Iquarc of the Sf in- die^ it may, have ftrength enough to bear the vio- lence ofSred at^ as W, ell in winding up the great weight, that keeps the Wheels in motion, as in the checking and turning the Jack^Tvinder back, to fet the Jack, a going, when by the winding up, it may be fiibjed: to ftand fliil, or fometimes, for want of weight, of elfe for want of Oiling or foine other accident. ^

Thefe Wheels thus Fbrg'd and Filed fiat, - muib be divided, the main Wheel common}Y into 64 equal parts, and the Ti/vrm Wheel mto 52 equal parts *, but thefe Numbers are not exadly obferv d by Smiths, for fometimes they make them more and fometimes lefs, either according to the foe of their WheeU^ or according as they intend their Wheels fnall go, fwifter or flower about (for the fewer the Teeth on a Wheel are, the fooner a Wheel goes about and the more Teeth on a Wheels the flower the Wheel about) or fometimes as they have open’d their Compafles to divide them : For if by luck, they at firft open their Compafles to fuch a widtig as will jufl: meafure out on a Circle, (which they deferibe on the Center of the Wheel for that purpofe) their intended number, than the Wheel fliall have the intended Number of Teeth ^ if not, let it fomewhat fall fhort, or exceed that Number, they matter not, but make that Num- ber of Teeth on the Wheeh And having thus di- vided the Wheel, they by the fide of a llraight Ru- ler laid to the Center, and every divifion markt on the Wheelj draw or fcratch a ifraight line from the outer limb of the Wheels^ to the Circle, which Circle (1 fhould have told you before) is deferib’d at that diflance from the outer Verge, they in- tend the Teeth (hall be cut down to. This is in- deed a rough way of working, but the Office of % Jack is well enough performed by this rough

Work

SMITHING. 47

Work and the ufual prizes fuch, as will fcarce pay Workmen for better, as they fay.

Thefe PFbeels thus divided, mull be cut down into thefe Divifions with a ^ Jack-file^ the Main^ jvbeel ftraight thwart the outer Verge, (which to fpeak Mathematicaliy, makes an Angle of 90 de- grees' with the flat fides of the PFheel^ ) and the Worm-Tvheel aflope, making an Angle of about II 5 degrees with its fides, that is, an Angle of 25 degrees, with a line drawn llraight athwart the outer Edge of the Wheels and that Teeth of the Worm-vjheel may gather themfelves into the Groevei of the Worm in the Worm-ffiindk *, the JV orm on the Worm-fpindle rmning about 65 degrees aflope from this Axis, or Perpendicular of the Worm-jpndle-^ the notches you make with the File mufl be fo wide, as to contain about twice the thicknefs of of t2iC\iTooth\ Therefore you may obferve, that the Number of Teeth cannot be aflign’d, becaiife the Sizes of all Jack wheels are not of equal Dia- meters, and the Sizes of the Teeth mull be filed very fquare and fmeoth, as the corners taken offh- and rounded on both fides towards the middle of the top or end of the Toothy which much helps the Teeth to gather in upon the Teeth of the Nut^ and the Worm on the Worm-fpindle,

The Teeth of the Wheels being cut down, and the whole Wheel finifh’d, they mufl: be forc’d ftiff and hard upon the fquare of the Spindle, clofe up" to the Shoulder *, which Square being made fome- what longer than the Crop of the Wheel is thick, mufl with a Cold-ChtJJel be cut on the top of that Square, to make the Iron that comes through the Square hole of the Wheelj fpread over the Crofs of the Wheel, and then that fpreading mull be battered with the Pen of the Hammer ; that ic may ftand up ftiff againfl the flioulder of the Square, on the other fide of th^ Wheel s but in

doing

smithing.

doing this, you mufl be very careful that tte Spindle ftand exadly Perpendicular to the flat lides of your IVkels ^ for Ihould the Spindle lean never fb little to one, or the other fide of the Wheels the the Wheel when it is moving in the Jach^frame would not move perpendicular, but Wabble to- wards the Fore or Backfides of the Jack-frame^ and perhaps by this irregular motion^ before a revo- lution of the Wheel be perform’d , it would go off from the length of the Teeth of the Nut*

Then file the Spindle-pins (which are the ends of the Spindle^ that go into the Center-holes of the Fore and Backfides of the Jack-frame) exaclly round and fit to their Center-holes, and place them into their proper Centerdioles. Then try if the Wheels are exadly round on their outer edges, and that in turning about, their flat lides wabble not, but in a revolution keep Parallel to the Fore and Backfides. The way Smiths ufe to try them by is, to turn them about by the Spindle^ and holding a piece of Chalk fteddy to the outer Limb of the Wheef not letting the Point of the Chalk flip forwards or backwards, or towards the right or left Hand, for then if the Chalk make a white flroke round the whole Wheef and that white ftroke lie exadly Parallel to the two outer Edges of the Wheef the Wheel is not only round, but ftands alfb true upon its Spindle., that is, Per- pendicular to the Spmdle., and the Spindle Perpen- dicular to the flat of it: But if the Chalk does not touch round the Wheel, you mull file down fb much of the outer Verge of the Wheel., where the Chalk does touch, as will bring down or equalize the Diameter of the wheel in that place, to the Diameter of the Wheel in the place where it does not touch *, fb you may conclude the Wheel is round. If the Mark of the Chalk lie not ex- adly in the middle between the two edges of

smithing.

49

the TP^heelj then it is not Perpendicular to the SpinMe, and you mtift with the Hammer fet it right, that is Perpendicular, by forcing the TVijtel over from the fide it leans too much to, or elfe by forcing the Spmdle^ which is all one^ yet this is an help you ought not to rely upoil but in cafe of necefiity 5 rather be Pure your IFheel and Spindle ffand Perpendicular to one another;, before you falleii the Wjeel upon the Iquare of the Spindle^ for by this help the fqiiare on the Spindle will be apt to loofen in the fquare of the wheels and you will have your ivloeel to new fallen upon the Square of the Spmdk again.

As you try“d the wheels with Chalk, fo .yod mull try the Nut^ the Worm and the Spindle.

The upper part of the Wotm-fpindle^ mull' be Fil’d tnily found to fit into the Worm-loop ^ that it fiiake notin it, and yet go very eafily about, without the leafl flopping. At the upper end of this round on the Worm Spindle^ you mull fife a fquare to fit the fquare hole of the Fly upon.

The Shank of the Worm-loop and the Stud of the Worm-fpindle^ muft Hand fo' far oft’ th6 left fide of the fore fide, that the Teeth of the Worm- vjheel^ may fall full into the Grooves of the Worm ;• for fo both being cut with the fanie flope, the tlope Teeth of the Worm-wheel will gather into the flope Grooves of the Spindle^ and preftiHg up- on the Worm^ drive about the Worm-fpmdk and the Fly.

The Fly h made fometimes with two, fomed times with four Arms from the Center, and fometimes the Arms are made longer, fome- times fhorter : The more Arms, and alfo' the longer Arms, are to' make the Jack go flower.

There is yet a fmall matter more of Iron-work about the Jack^ which is the Tumbler ^ but it lies in the farther end of the Barrel^ and cannot well

D

5© smithing.

be deicribM without a particular Figure, whktr therefore I have inferted. As in Fig. 2. A the iBarrelj B the Main fpindle coming through the Barrel^ ^ the Center of the Tumbler moving up- on the Cent^r-pin^ which is faften‘d into an Iron- plate behind the Barrel. ^The Colkr upon the Main -fpin die , from which proceeds a Tongue^ which pafles through a pretty wide hole at in the Tumbler^ as far as the Catch of the Tu?nbler,- The TurMer moves as aforefaid, upon the Center hole but receives the Tongue through k at and pafies as far as ^ This Tongue ferves as a Check to the Tumbler, that it cannot tumble above an Angle of 20 degrees, from the Iron-plate it is faften d to ^ and that the width of its Center- hole, and the width of the Tongue pafles through, and the mention of the Coller about the Mam-- allows it •, but w’ ere the Center-hole % and its Center-pin fit, and the Hole % and the Tongue that alfo pafies through k alfo fit, and the Colkr fixt, it could not move at all. But this play is enough for it, to do the purpofe it is defign'd for. The Tumbler is Ib plac d behind the Barrel^ that while the Jack line is winding up upon the Barrel^ its round britch pafles forwards by all the Croffes of the Main-wheel^ and the Foint or Catch as then claps it felf fnug or clofe to the Iron- plate of the Barrel: Bnt when the Barrel is turn’d to the contrary way, the weight of the Catch in half a revolution of the Barrel (let the Tumbler be pofited where it will) makes it open and fall from the Iron-plate,, and butt agaiiifl: one or other of the Croffes on the Main-wheel^ and fb thriifts the Main ivheel about with the Barrel,

The Eye of the IVmch or TVmdery is forg’d as you were taught to forge the Fin-hole in the Crefs- garnet^ Numb, 11. fol 1 8. But that was to be a fmall round hole, and therefore you were diredt-

ly

S M IT tl 1 N ,51

ly to lay a fmall round piece of Iroi or Wyre^ where you intended the Pin hole Ihould be, and lap the other^end. of your Work over it v but this is to be a wide fquare hole, therefor^ you jnuft lay a fquare piece of Iron of your fize,^- where the Eye of the "^fack-wmeh ftall be and lap or doable the other end oyer it, andWdd and Work as you were direfted. The reft of the W'jicb is but common Forj^wg and Filing Work, which’ hath been fufficiently taught already.

tte Wood-w^brk belonging to the is a Barrel^ a Spt-'wheel and a Handing of the Wmeh \ v^hich being Turners Work, Tlhall lay nothing to, till I come to the Art of Turning. Only thofe i^heels that have rhore than one Groove in them, are call d Two, Three, S truck-wheels^ in Workmens corrupting language; butifup-' pofe, originally two Sthak^ three Str oak-wheels^ &c. from the number of Grooves that are in them. ’

The Excellencies of a good Ja^kart; i. That the Jack-frame be Forg’d and Fil d Square, and conveniently Strong, well let together, and will Screw clofe and tight up. 2. That the Wheels be perpendicularly, and ftrongjy fix’d* on the Squares of the Spindles, 3. That the Teeth be evenly cut and well fmooth’d, and that thcTeerh of the Worm- wheel fall evenly into the Groove of the Worm. 4. That the Spitidli Fins fliake not betweeh the Fore and Backfides^ nor afe to6 big,' of too’ little for their Center holes.

^ The fquare Borcy is a fquare Steel Point or Shank well Temper’d, fitted into a Iquare' Socket in an Iron Wimble : It is deferib’dy Fig, 3. Its ufe is to open a Hole and make it truly round and ffnodth within ; when yoil vSk it, you mult fet the Head againit your D 2 Breaft

32

s Ml r n 1 N a

Breaff, and put the Point of the f^uare Bore into the Hole yon punch’d or would open, and turning the Handle about, you with it turn about the Shank of the f^uare Borey wliofe Fdges cut away the Irregularities- of the Iron rhade in the Punching. But yon rliuli thru]]: or lean hard v,/ith your Brealf againll the Head of the fqmre Bore^ that it may cut the faller : And you mult be fure to guide the pjuare Bore truly llraight forwards m the Hole, kit the Hole be wrought aflope in the Iron,

^To open an Hoie^ is in Smith’s Language, to make the Hole wider.

^ A Duffiail^ is a Figure made in the form' of a Doves-tail, and is us’d by many other Handy- crafts, as well as Smiths, but moih elpecially by Joyners, as 1 fhall Ihew, when I come to Joynery.

^ A Jack-file^ is a broad File ibinewhat thin on both Edges^' and ftronger in the Middle.

I'he manner of making Molds to Cafi Leaden- Bullets in,

I Infer t the making of Bullet moUs^ becaufe there is fome fort of Work in them different from what hath yet been taught. The Handles, and the Heads are Forg’d as other Work, but the two concave Hemifphers, are firff: Punch’d with a round ended Punchy of the fhape and al- moft of the fize you intend the Bullet Ihali be. They muff; be Punch’d deep enough at the Forge with' a blood red heat *, then are the Edges of the Chaps Filed flat, firff; with a common File the common way, but afterwards with an ufing File as Workmen call it. The ufing File, is a long and broad File, exadly flat on both its cut fides, having a fquare Iron handle down out at

one

SMITHING. 53

one end with an hole in it ^ but the Handle is not to hold it by when you ufe it, but the hole in it to go over a pin you hang it upon, when you do not ufe it. When you ufe it, you mult iay it flat upon the Work bench, with its blandle, from you, and you mull take care that it lies fo- lid and Iteady, left: when you Work upon it, it flip from you •, therefore you may flrike a Nail ' in at the hole in the Handle, a little way into the Work bench, that you may draw it again, when you have done with the ufing File^ you may drive in a fmall Tack on each fide the u/Ing File^ to keep it fteddy or you may Tack down two fmall thin boards on either lide and rip them off again when you have done. Your uftng File lying thus ftraight and fteddy before you, iay the Chaps of one half of the Mold flat upon the hither end of the ufing Ftk^ and holding your two Thumbs, and your two Fore-fingers upon the Head of the Mold, thruft: your Work hard down from you the whole length of the Ufing-fik^ then draw your Work lightly back, and thruft: it again hard from you ^ retire thefe thrufts thus, till upon the Chaps of the Mold^ you can fee no irregularities, or the File-ftroaks of the common File left, fo may you be fure that the Chaps of the Mold is truly flau Do the like by the other half of the Mold,

Now you muft: try whether each of thefe con- caves be an exad half-round ^ thus you may de^ feribe an Arch a little more than a Semi-circle, juft; of the Diameter of the Bullet, upqp the end of a thin piece of Brafs-latin, draw a ftraight Line through the Center, and the Arch on both I fides it, for the limits of the Semi-circle •, File I very curioufly all the Brafs away on the end, juft i to this Scmi-circle, and juft to the DiametraL

54; smithing.

line, on either fide of the Semi-circle, fo haK you a convex Semi-circle : Put this convex Semi- circle into the Concave Molds^ if it fits them fq as the Convex reaches juft the bottom of the Molds^ wheu its Shoulder touches juft the. Chaps of the Mdy they are each a true concave He- jnifphere. But if the Shoulder of the Convex (that is, a Diametral-line prolong’d) rides upon the Chaps of the Concave^ and the bottom of the Convex touch not the bottom of the Con- cave, the Concave is Punch’d too deep, and muft have its Chaps rubb*d upon the Ufing-ple again, till it comply with the Convex. Then put into the two (Concaves a round Bullet^ that will juft fill them both, and pinching the Heads of the Mold ciofe together in a Vice^ with the Bullet in it, drill an hole through both the handles of the Joint. ' The reafon why the Bullet is put into the Mold is, becaufe the Chaps of the two Halves fhonld lie exadly upon one another, whilft the hole for the Jomt is drilling. Then fit a Rivet- pin for this hole, and Rivet them togkher, but ii6t lo hard, but tliat the Mold may open and fhut pretty ealie, and yet go true. Then take the Bullet out, and File in each half of the Head, Talf a round hole diredly againft one another for fhe a Gfi', which tvyo hajf, holes, v/hen the Mold is fhut, will make one round hole.

You may now try with CRy, or by calling a leaden 'Bullet in it, whetlier it be exadly round or rk> ^ for making a true ' round hole in a thin piece of Brafs, juft of the Circumference of the Chaps, yon may try if the'C^/?-&‘//er vvill juft pals thro’, and alfo fill that hole when the Bullet is turn d every Way ^ which if it do, you may Conclude the Mold is true. This thin piece of Brafs, with a round hold in it, is calFd a S'iz,er. '

^ Ad / 7?^ X ^

But the infide wants deanfing, for hitherto it is only Punch’d. Therefore you mnil provide a ^ Bullet-hore^ with which you may bore the in- fide of each half to clear it. Or if they be not quite deep enough Punch'd, you may bore them deeper. You may bore them feverally, or toge- ther, by putting the BulUt-bore into the Mold^ fo as the Shank may come through the Geat,

in this Seftion you fee, firil the ufe of a JJfing* files an Inftriiment of great ufe for a flat Filing ; for by it you may make two pieces of Iron of fomewhat confiderable breadth, fo true, that by laying the two flat fides upon each other, they fhall draw up one another. It is much ufed by Clock^makers ^ Watch-makers ^ Letter-moUUmakerSy and indeed all others that frame Square-work on Iron, Steel or Brafs. Secondly, the ufe of a Bullet-horcj which though it be feldom us’d, yet it may ferve not only for Bullet-molds^ but for other purpofes ^ and by altering its fhape into an Oblong, a Cone or Cilinder, you may bore thefe hollow Figures either for Adolds^ or fome other accidental Ufes.

^ A Qeat^ is the hole through which the Met- tal runs into the mold. The Word is us'd by rnoft Founders.

^ The Bullct-hore^ is a Shank of Steel , having a Steel Globe or Bullet at one end, juft of your intended Bnllct fize. This Globular end muft; be Flatch’d with a fine cut, by a Ftle- cutter., and Hardend and Temper'd. The end of the Shank, this Globular Bore is faftned to, muft be round and fo fmall, that when the Bullet ^bore is in the mold., the Geat will eafily receive it. The other end of the Shank muft be fitted into the fquare Socket pf tjie Wimble, and have a Shoulder to it, D 3 to

§5 SMITHING.

to Hop the Socket from Aiding too far upon the Shanks From this Shoulder, the reft of the Shank muft run Tapering down, to the fmall end the Bullet-bore is faftned to. You miift Work with it, as you were taught to VS/ork with the Square-bore.

Of TwiHing of the Iron*

SQuare and Aat Bars, fometimes are by Smiths, Twifed for Ornament. It is very eafily done ; for after the Bar is Square or Aat Forg’d (and if the curiofity of your Work require it truly Fil’d) you muft take a Flame-beat^ or if your Work be fmall, but Blood-red heaty and you may twift it about, as much or as little as you pleafe, either with the Tongs ^ Vice or Hand-vice^ &c.

Of Cafe-hardning.

CAfe-hardning is fometimes us’d by File-cutters'^ when they make courfe Files for Cheapnefs, and generally moft Rafps have formerly been made of Iron and Cafe-hardned^ becaufe it makes the putfide of them hard. It is us’d alfo by Gm*> fmiths^ for Hardning their Barrels ^ and it is us’d fpr Tobacco-boxes^ Cod-piece-buttoni^ Heads for Walk^ng-Jf aves y &c. And in thefe Cafes, W^ork- rnen to let a greater value on them in the Buyers efteem, call them Steel-harrelsy Steel-tobacco-boxes^ Steel-buttons y Steel-heads^ &c. But Iron thus hardned takes a better Polilh and keeps the Po- lifh much longer and better, than if the Iron were not Caje hardned. The manner of Cafe- hardning is thus, Take Cow-horn or Hoof dry it thoroughly in an Oven, and then beat it to Pow- der, put about the fame quantity of Bay-Salt to it, and mingle them together with ftale Chamberly, or elfe White-wine-vinegar. Lay fome of this mixture upon the Loam ^ made as you were

S M IT H I G. 57

taught Nuwb. 1. fol. 1 5 . And cover your Iron all over with it ^ then wrap the Loam about all, and lay it upon the Hearth of the Forge to dry and harden : When it is dry and hard, put it into the Fire and blow up the Coals to it^ till the whole Lump have juft a Blood’-nd-beat^ but no higher, left the quality of your mixture burn away and leave the Iron as foft as at firft. Then take it out and quench it : Or, inftead of Loam, you may wrap it up in Plate Iron, fo as the mix- ture may touch every part of your Work, and blow the Coals to it, as aforefaid.

Of fever al forts of Steel in common ufe among Smiths.

TH E difficulty of getting good Steel makes many Workmen (when b^y good hap they light on it) commend that Country-Steel for beft, from whence that Steel came. Thus I have found fome cry up Flemifh-fieel^ others dtjh^ Englijhj Spanijhy Venice^ &c. But according to my Obfervation and comm.on Confent of the moft ingenious Workmen, each Country pro- duces almoft indifferently good and bad *, yet each Country doth not equally produce fuch Steel, as is fit for every particular purpofe, as 1 ffiall ftiew yon by and by. But the feveral forts of Steel, that are in general ufe here in England^ are the Efjglifh^ the FlemiJhj the Swedifi^ the Spanifl) and the Venke^fieel,

The Englifh-fieel is made in feveral places in England^ as in Torkjhire^ Gloucefierjhire^ the

^fld of Kent, &c. But the beft is made about the Forrefl of Dean, it breaks Fiery, withfomc- v/hat a courfe Grain. But if it be well wrought and proves found, it makes good Edge-tools, Files and Punches. It will work well at the Forge, and take a good Heat,

The

5$ SMITHING.

The Flem^-fteel is made in Germany^ in the Country of Stkrmark and in the Land of Luyek i From thence brought to Cokn^ and is brought down the River Rhine to Dort^ and other parts of Holland and Flanders^ fome in Bars and fome in Gadsj and is therefore by us calfd Flemijh-fieelj and fometimes Gad-feel. It is a tough fort of Steel, and the only Steel us’d for Watch-rfprings. It is alfo good for Punches ^ File-cutters alfo ufe it to make their Chiflels of, with which they cut their Files. It breaks with a fine Grain, works well at the Forge, and will take a weld- ing Heat.

I cannot learn that any Steel comes from Sive- ien^ but from Dantzick comes fbme which is call’d Swedifh-fteeh It is much of the fame Qua- lity and Finefs with Flemijk-fieel.

The Spanijh-feel is made about Bifcaji It is a fine fort of Steel, but fbme of it is very dif- ficult to work at the Forge, becaufe it will not take a good Heat ^ and it fometimes proves very unfbund, as not ^ing well curried^ that is well wrought. It is too quick (as Workmen call it) that is, too brittle for Springs or Punches, but makes good fine Edg’d-tools.

Venice- feel is much like Spanipj feel j but much finer, and Works fomewhat better at the Forge. It is us‘d for Razors, Chirurgion’s In- ffruments, Gravers, &c. Becaufe it will come to a fine and thin Edge. Razor makers gene-^ rally clap a fmall Bar of Venice- feel between two finall Bars of Flemijh-feel ^ and fb Work pr Weld them together, to ftrengthen the back of the Razor, and keep it from a*ack-?

m

There

smithing. 59

There is another Ibrt of Steel, of higher com- mendations than any of the forgoing forts. It is call’d Dafnafcus-fleel; ’tis very rare that any comes into England nnwrpught, but the Turkiflj- Cymeters are generally made of it. It is molt difficult of any Steel to Work at the Forge, for you ftiall fcarce be able to ftrike upon a Blood- heat^ but it will Red-fear infomuch that thefe Cytneteri are, by many Workmen, thought to be caft Steel. But when it is wrought, it takes the finefl and keeps the ftrongeft Edge of any other Steel. Workmen fet almofl: an ineftimable va- lue upon it to make Punches, Cold-punches, &c. of. We cannot learn where it is made, and yet as I am inform’d, the Honourable Mr. Eoyl hath been very careful and induftrious in that en- quiry ^ giving it in particular charge to fomc Travellers to Dantafeusy to bring home an Ac- count of it: But when they came thither they heard of none made there, but were fent about 50 Miles into the Country and then they were told about 50 Miles farther than that : So that no certain Account could be gain’d where it is made. Kir man towards the Ocean affords ve- ry fine Steel, of which they make Weapons highly priz’d ; for a Cymeter of that Steel, will cut through an Helmet with an ealie blow. Geog^ Re^, foL 279.

*Ibe Rule to know gopd Steel by,

BReak a little piece of the end of the Rod, and obferve how it breaks ; for good Steel breaks fhort of all Gray, like froff: work Silver, gut in the breaking of the bad you will find fome veins of Iron liiining and doubling in the Steel,

Of

s M IT H 1 G,

60

Of Nealing of Steel,

HAving chofe your Steel and forg’d it to your intended fhape, if you are either to File Engrave or to Punch upon it, you ought to Neal it firft, becaufe it will make it fofter and confequently work eafier. The common way is to give it a Blood-red-heat in the Fire, then take it out, and let it cool of it felf.

There are Tome pretenders to know how to mike Steel as ibft as Lead^ but lb oft as my Curiofity has prompted me to* try their preten* ded Procefles, fo oft have they fail’d me ^ and not only me, but fome others, careful Obler* vers. But the way they moft boaft of, is the often heating the Iron or Steel in red-hot Lead, and letting it cool of it felf with the Lead. I have many times try’d this without any other liiccefs, than that it does make Iron or Steel as foft as if it were well Neal’d the common way, but no fofter : And could it be otherwife, the fmall Iron Ladles, that Letter-founders ufe to the calling of Printing Letters, would be very foft indeed^ for their Iron Ladles are kept con- llantly Month after Month in melting Mettal, whereof the main Body is Lead, and when they call fmall Letters, they keep their Mettal red- hot ^ and 1 have known them many times left in the Mettal and cool with it, as the Fire has gone out of it felf ^ but yet the Iron Ladles have been no fofter , than if they had been well Neal'd the common way. But perhaps thefe Pretenders mean the Iron or Steel Ihall be as foft as Lead, when the Iron or Steel is red-hot ^ fo, we may thank them for nothing.

But

smithing. 6i

But that which makes Steel a very finall matter fofter than the common way of Nealing is3 by covering Steel with acourfe Powder of Cow- Horns, or Hoofs, or Rams-Horns , and lb in- cloling it in a Loam : Then put the whole Lump into a Wooden Fire to heat red-hot and let it lie in the Fire till the Fire go out of it felf, and the Steel cool with the Fire.

Of Hardnifig and Tempering Steel,

ENnghJh, Flemifh and Swedifl-ftef mull have a pretty high heat given them, and then fuddenly quench in Water to make them very hard but Spanijh and Venice- feel will need but a Blood-red-heat, and then when they are quenclfd in Water, will be very hard. If your Steel be too hard, that is to brittle, and it be an edg'd or pointed Inltrument you make, the edge or point will be very fubjed to break v or if it be a Spring, it will not bow, but with the leafl bend- ing it will fnap afTunder : Therefore you mufi: ht it down (as Smiths fay) that is, make it fofter, by tempering it: The manner is thus, take a piece of Grin-flone or Whet-ftone and rub hard upon your Work to take the black Scurf off it, and brighten it ^ then let it heat in the Fire, and as it grows hotter you will fee the Colour change by degrees, coming to a light goldilh Colour^ then to a dark goldilh Colour, and at laff to a' blew Colour ; choofe which of thefe Colours your Work requires, and then quench it fuddenly in Water. The light goldilh Colour is for Files, Cold-chiffels and Punches^ that Punch into Iron and Steel : The dark goldilh Colour for Punches to ufe on Brafs, and generally for molt Edge- tools; The blew Colour gives the Temper to Springs' in general, and is alfo us’d to Beautifie bpth Iron and Steel j but then Workmen fome-

timcs

6i smithing.

times grind hdico and SaUad-oyl together, arid rub that mixture upon it, with a woolleri Rig, while it is heating, and let it cool of it felf.

There is another fort of Hardning^ call’d Ham* fher^hardning, It is moll us’d on IrOn of Steel Plates, for Dripping pans^ Saws^ StraighuRulers^ ^c. It is perform’d only, with well Hammering of the Plates, which both fmooths them, and beats the Mettal firmer into its own Body, and fbmewhat hardens it.

The manner of Forging Steel, eithef for Edge-tools, Punches^ Springs, Is (the feve- ral fllapes confider’d) the fame With forging Iron : Only this general Rule obferve, from an old Englijh Verfe us’d among Smiths , when they Forge Edge-tools,

He tha^ *wiU a good Edge ivin^

Mu^ Forge thick and Grind thin.

the End of Smithing.

MECHJ^

I

( ^3 )’

UECtiANlCK EXERCISES;

O R,

The Doflrine of HanJj-Works

Ihe Art of JOINERY.

Definition.

JOINERY, is an Art Manual ^ whereby

ral Pieces of Wood are fo fitted and joind toge^ ther by Straight-line, Squares, Mkers or any Bevel, that they fiiaUjeem one intire Piece.

Explanation.

By Straight-Lines I mean that which in Joy- ner’s Language is call’d a Joint, That is, two Pieces of Wood are Shot (that is Plained,) or elfe they are Pared, that is, the irregularities that hinder the doling of the two Pieces are cut off with a Pairing-chiffel. They are Shot or Pared (as I Paid) fo exadly (iraight, that when they are fet upon one another, light lhall not be difcern d betwixt them. This they call Shoot- ing of a Joint, or Paring to a Joint, becaule thefe two Pieces arc with Glew commonly join’d together, either to make a Board broad enough for their purpofe, or to ^ Clamp one piece of Wood to the end of another piece of Wood to keep it from Calling or Warping.

By

64 J 0 I N E RT.

By S^uares^ I mean the making of Frames, ei« ther for Door-cafes or fueh like, which is the Framing of two pieces of Wood athwart two other pieces of Wood, fo as the four Angles of the Frame may comply with the Square mar^* ked D.

By Miters are meant tfie joining of two pieces of Wood, fo as the Joint makes half a Square, and does comply with the Miter-fcjuare mar- ked E.

By a Bevel is meant any other Angle : As Frames that may be made of Ventagov^ Hexagon^ QEiagon^ &c. Figures.

§ I . The Ra?nes of foyners Tools defcrih^J^ in Vlate IV.

^ A A Work-bench, h The Hook in it, to lay Jr\^ Boards or other ^ Stuff’ flat againfl, whilJft they are c Trying or Plaining, c The Bench- Screw (on its hither fide) to Screw Boards in, whilff: the Edges of them are Plaining or ^ Shoot- ing *, and then the other edge of the Board is fet upon a Pin or Pins (if the Board be fo long as to reach the other. Leg) put into the Holes marked aaaaa down the Legs of the Bench ; whiclt Pin or Pins may be removed into the higher or lower holes, as the breadth of the Board ffiatl re- quire : So then, the Bench-fcrew keeps the Board clofe to the edge of the Bench, and the Pins in the Legs keep it to its height, that it itiayfland fteddy whilff: the other edge is working upon : For in the Shooting of a Joint, if the Board keeps not its exad pofition, but fhakes or trem- bles under the Plain, your Joint will very hardly be truly ffraight. d The Hold-faff, let pretty looff into round holes marked hhbhh bi in the Bench: Its Office is to keep the Work; faff upon the Bench, whilff you either Saw, Tennant,

Mor«

j o I N E k r. 6f

Mortefs, or fbmetimes Plain upon it, &c. It per- forms this Office with the knock of an Hammer^ or Mallet, upon the head of it *, for the Beak of it being made crooked downwards, the end of the Beak falling upon the flat of the Bench, keeps the head of the Hold-ja^ above the flat of the Eench^ and the hole in the Bench the Shank is let into being bored ftraight down, and wide enough to let the Hold-fafl play a little, the head of the Hold-fafl being knockt, the point of the Beak throws the ShaT^ a-flope in the hole in the Bench, and prefies its back- fide hard againfl: the edge of the hole on the upper Superficies of the Bench^ and its fore-fide hard againft the opperfite fide of the under Super- ficies of the Bench, and fo by the point of the Beak^ the Shank of the Hold-fafl is wedged between the upper edge, and its opperfite edge of the round hole in the Bench. Sometimes a double Scre-w is fixed to the fide of the Bench, as at H ^ or fonie- times its farther Cheek is laid an edge upon the flat of the Bench, and faftned with an Hold-fafl, or, fometimes, two on the Bench, e A MaUet.

§.2. BBBBBBB Plains of fevetal Sorts : as,^

B I • \ Fore Plain, a The Tote, h The Mouth.

c The Wedge, d The Iron, e The Sole. /The Fore^end. g The Britch. f g h The Stock* All together A Plane. It is called the Fere Plane becaufe it is ufed before you come to work either with the Smooth Plane, or with the Joynter. The edge of its Iron is not ground upon the flraight, as the Smooth Plane, and the Joynter are, but rifes with a Convex- Arch in the middle of it •, for its Office being to prepare the Stuff for either the Smoothing Plane^ or thQ Joynter, Workmen fet the edge of it ® Ranker than the edge either of the Smoothing Plane, or the Joynter ^ and ffiould the,, Iron of the Plane be ground to a ftraight edge,

E and

^6 Jo I NE RT.

and it be fet never lb little Ranker on one end of the edge than on the other, the Ranker end would ( bearing as then upon a. point ) in working, dig Gutters on the Surface oi the Stuff‘s buttliisJrow ( being ground to a Convex-Arch ) though it iliould be fet a little Ranker on one end of its edge than on the other, would not make Gutters on the Surface of the Stuff\ but ( at the moft ) little hollow dawks on the Stuffs and that more or lefs, according as the Plane is ground more or iefs Arching. Nor is it the Office of this Plane to fmooth the Stujf\ but only ( as 1 faid ) to prepare it, that is, to take oft the irregular Rifings, whe- ther on the fides, or in the middle, and therefore it is fet fomewhat Ranker^ that it may take the Irregularities the fooner off the Stuffs that the Smoothing PUne^ or the Joynter^ may afterwards the eafier work it Try. The manner of Trying lhall be taught, when I come to Treat of the ufe of the Rule.

You mull ilote, that as I told yon in Smithing^ Num. I. foL 14, If, 16. it was the Office of the courfe toothed File to take off the prominent Irregu- larities the Hammer made in the Forgings See. and that you were not to file them more away than you need, fo the fame Caution is to be given you in the ufing of this/^?re Plane mjoynery^ for the reafon there aftedged in Smithing^ whether, to a- void Repetition, I refer you ^ only with this Con- fideratiori, that there Iron.^ or Steely was the mat- ter wrought upon, and there a courfe File the Tool ^ but now Wood is the matter, and a Courfe^ or Fore- Plansj theJooL

§. 3 Of fetting the Iron*

WHen you fet the Iron of the Fore-Phne^ con- fider the Stuff you are to work upon, *viz^ Whether it be hard or foft^ or Curlings as Joyners

call

Joinery.

call Crofs grain d Stuff : If it be hard or curlings you muft not fet the Iron veay rank^^ becaufe a Man s flrength will not cut deep into hard > and if it be not hard fVood^ but curlwg^ or knotty^ and the Iron Kank'fetj you may indeed work with it till you come to fome Kmt^ or Curl^ but then yon may either tear yoivc Stuffs or break the edge of your Iron ^ therefore you may perceive a reafon to (et the Iron fine for curlings and knotty Stuff.

But if you ask me how ran\^ your Iren ought to be fet ? I anfwer, If your Wood be fofit^ and your Stuff free ^ aadfrowy^ that is, evenly temper'd all the way, you may fet the Iron to take a fnaving off the thicknefs of an old coined Shilling, but fcarce thicker ^ whereas, if your Stuff be harfi or curlings or knotty, you fhall fcarce be able to take a {ha- ving off the thicknefs of an old Groat. Therefore you muft examine the Temper of your Stuff, by eafy Trials, how the Vlam will work upon it, and fit your Iron accordingly. And obfer ve this as a General Rule, that the Iron of the Fore-Flam is, for the firft working with it, to be fit as rank as you can make good wwk,with and that for Ipeed lake.

If your Iron be fet too raftk, knock wdth an Ham- mer upon the Britch of the Stocky, and afterwards upon the Wedge ^ for this knocking upon the Britch . if you knock hard enough, ’twill raife the Iron a little, and fit it fine *, if you knock not hard enough, you muft knock again, till the b-077 do rife ^ but if you knock too hard, it will raife the Iron lb much, that its edge will rife above the Sale into the Mouth of the Stock, and confequently not touch the Stuff: Therefore you muft knock ibftly at firft, till, by trials, you find the Iron rifes to a convenient finenefi. But as this knocking on the Britch raifes the Iron, fo it alfb raifes and loofens Wedge-, therefore (as aforefaid) whenever E 2 • yon

--yss J 0 1 n E Rf

you knock ufon the Bntch^ you muft alfo knock upon the TVedge^ to foftcn the Iron again.

If you have raifed the edge of the Iron too fine^ you mull knock fofcly upon the head of the Iron^ and then again upon -the and this you may

fometimes do feveral times, till you fit your Iron to a commkntfnene/s.

When you have occafion to take your Iron out of the Stock to ruh it, that is, to whet it, you may knock pretty fmart Blows upon the Stocky be- tween the Mouth and the Fore-end^ to loofen the I9edge, and confequently the Iron,

Thefe ways of fetting^ are ufed to all ether TJanes^ as well as For e-f lanes.

In the uhng of this, and indeed, all other Tlanes^ you miiil begin at the hinder end of the Stuff, the Grain of the Wood lying along the length of the Bench, and Plane forward, till you come to the fore^end, unlefs the Stuff' i^rovts Crefs-gramd,, in any part of its length*, for then you mull turn your Stuff' to Plane it the contrary way, fo far as it runs Crofs^graind^ and in Plane-- ing, you mull, at once, lean pretty hard upon the Tlane^ and alfo thrull it very hard forwards, not letting the Flam totter to, or from you-wards, till you have made a Stroak the whole length of the Stuff'- And this fometimes, if your Stuff be long, will require your making two or three fleps forwards, e’er you come to the fore-end of the Stuff: But if it do, you mull comeback, and be- gin again at the farther end, by the fide of the lafl plan’d Stroak, and fo continue your feveral lays of Planeing, till the whole upfide of the Stuff be planed.

And if the Stuff be broad you ai*c to Plane up- on, and it warf a little with the Grain,^ or be any ways crooked in the breadth, you muft then turn the Grain athwart the Work-bench^ and Plane upon

the

(

*

y O J N E R T. 6^ thtCrofs-grain. For, if your work be hollow in the middle, you muft Plane both the Bearing fides thinner, till they come to a Try with the middle. Then turn the other fide of your work, and working ftill Crofs-grawd^ work away the middle, till it come with the two hdes.

This v/ay of Qrofs-grain'd working, is, by Work- men, called Traverfing,

Thus have you, in general, the ufe of all the other Vlanes : But the ufe of thofe Planes, that are defigned for other particular purpofes, I (hall Ihew, as they com? in Order.

§. 4. Of the Joynter. B. 2.

THe Joynter is made fomewhat longer than the Fore-pla^ej and hath its Sole perfediy ftraight from end to end. Its Office is to follow the Fore-plaiJe^ and to fljoot an edge perfectly ftraight, and not only an edge, but alfo a Board of any thicknefs^ efpecially when a Joynt is to be jhot. Therefore the Hand muft be carried along the whole length, with an equal bearing weight, and fo exadly even, and upright to the edges of the Board, that neither fide of the Tlam encline either inward or outwards, but that the whole breadth be exadly fquare on both its fides ^ fuppofng its fides ftraight : fo will two edges of two Boards, when thus {hot^ lie fo ex- adtly flat and fquare upon one another, that light will not be difeerned betwixt them. But yet it is counted a piece of good Workmanfliip in a yoyner^ to have the Craft of bearing his Hand fo curioufly even, the whole length of a long Board *, and yet it is hut a Height to thofe, Praclice hath inur’d the Hand to. The Joynter is alfo ufed to Try Tables with, ( large or fmall ) or other fucb broad Work ^ and then Joyners work, as well up- on the Traverfe wich it, as. with the Grain of the

E 3 Wood,

70 Joinery.

Wood, and alfo Angularly, or Corner-wife, that they may be the more affur’d of the flatnefs of their Work.

Its Iron muftbe fetYQrjfine^ fo fine, that when you wink v/ith one Eye, and fet that end the ftraight fide of the Iron is next to the other Eye, there appears' a little above an hairs breadth of the edge above the Superficies of the foie of thQ Tlanej and the length or the edge mufl; lie perfed- ly ftraight with the flat breadth of the [ole of tho Vlane : f or the Iron being then well wedg’d up, and you working with the Flane thus fet^ have the greater afliirance that the Iron cannot run too deep into the and cbnfequently you have the lefs danger that the Joynt is wrought out of ftraight.

§. 5. The life of the Strike-bloch nPHe Strike-block marked B 5. is a Tlane fliorter -I- than the Joynter^ having its foie made exad- ly flat, . and ftraight, and is ufed for the fiooting of IhoYt Joynt j becaufe it is more handy than the long Joynter- It is alfo ufed for the framing, and fitting the Joyntsof Miters Bevels *, but then it is ufed in a different manner from other Times : For if dhe Miter and Bevel you are to fit be fmail, you muff: hold it very fteddy in your left hand^ with the '[ole of it upwards, and its fore-end tov/ards your right hand ; and you muff: hold your work in your right hand very fteddy : Then apply the fawn Miter ^ or fawn Bevel at the end of your Stuff\ to the fore-end of the Strike- blocks and fo thruft it hard and upright forwards, till it pafs over the edge ' of the fo fliall thb edge df the Iron^ with feverah of thefe thrufts continued, -cut, or plane off: your fluff/ the rough- nefs that the Teeth of your' Saw made : But if your workTe fo big that you ranuot 'well weild

it in your right hand, you mull fet the end of your work in the Bench-ferew^ and Plane upon it with a fmoothing Vlam.

§. d. 7be U/e of the Smoothing-Plane.

THe Smoothing-plane marked B 4. mull have its Iron fet very fine^ becaufc its Office is to fmoothen the work from thofe Irregularities the Fore-plane made.

§. 7. The Ufe of the Rabbet-Plane,

THe Rahhet-plane marked B f. is to cut part of the upper edge of a Board, or other Stuff\ flraight, that is, Iquare down into the Boards that the edge of another Board allb cut down in the fame manner, may fit and join into the Square of the firll Board thus cut away : And when two Boards are thus lapped on the edges over one an- other this lapping over is called Rahhetting,

The Rahhet-plane is alfo fometimes ufed to ftrike a Facia in a piece oi Molding j as lhall be Ihewed in its proper place.

The lides of the Iron are not inclofed in the Stock of this Vlane^ as the fore-going V lanes but the Iron is full as broad as the is thick, that the very Angles of the edge of the Iron may not be born off the Stuffs to hinder the llraight and fquare cutting it down : Nor doth it deli- ver its ihaving at a Mouth on the top of the Stock as the other Tlanes do : But it hath its Mouth on the fides of the ?lane^ and delivers its lhavings there. Its Iron is commonly about an

Inch broad. _

o

§. 8. TheUfeofthe?\OYr.

^PHe ?loiv marked B6. is a mxvow Rahhet- ^ plane ^ with fome Additions to it : two

fquare Staves^ marked a a (yet fome of them

E 4 have

1% 7 O I N E R r.

- have the upper edges of them rounded off for the better compliance with the Hand. ) Thefe Stavei are let ftiff through two Iquare Mortefles in the Stocky marked h h. They are about feven or eight Inches long, and Hand ftraight and fquare on the farther fide of the Stock ; and thefe two Staves have flioulders on the hither fide of the Stocky reaching down to the wooden [ok of the Vlane^ ( for there is alfb an hon file belonging to the Flow, ) To the bottom of thefe two Shoulders is, Rivitted with Iron Rivets, a Fence (as Workmen call it ) which comes clofe under the Wooden file., and its depth reaches below the Iron file about half an Inch : Becaule the Iron of the Plow is ve-* ry narrow, and the fides of it towards the bot- tom are not to be inclofed in the Stock, for the fame reafon that was given in the Rahlet-plane ^ therefore upon the Stock is let in, and ftrongly nailed, an Iron Plate of the thicknefs of the Plow- Iron, for Wood of that breadth will not be ftrong enough to endure the force the lower end of the Plov/-Iron is put to : This Iron-Plate is almoff of the fame thicknefs that the breadth of a Plow^- Iron is. Joyners have feveral Flows, for feveral widths of Grooves,

The Office of the Flow is, to plow a narrow fquare Groove on the edge of a Board ^ which is thus perform’d. The Board is fet an edge with one end in the Bsneh-ferew^ and its other edge upon a Pin, or Pins, put into a Hole, or Holes in the Leg, or Legs of the Bench , fuch an Hole, or Holes, as will, moft conveniently for height, fit the breadth of the^oard : Then the Fence of the Flow is fet to that Diftance off the Iron-Plate of the Plow, that you intend the Groove fhall lie off the edge of the Board : As if you would have the Groove lie half an Inch off the Board, then the two fiaves with the Mallet, be knocked

through

JO INERT. 7}

through the Mortelles in the Stocky till the Fence flands half an Inch off the Iron-Plate ; and if the Staves are fitted ftiff enough in the Mortefs of the Stocky, It will keep at that Diftance whilfl: you Plow the Groove : For the Feme ( lying low- er than the Iron of the Plane ) when you fet the Iron of the Plow upon the edge of the Board, will lie flat againfl: the farther edge of the Board, and fo keep the Iron of the Plow all the length of the Board at the fame Diftance, from the edge of the Board that the Iron of the Plow hath from the Fence, Therefore your Plow being thus fitted, plow the Groove as you work with other Planes, only as you laid hold on the Stock of other Planes when you ufe them, now you muft lay hold of the two fiavei and their fljonUers, and fo thruft your Plow forwards, till your Groove be made to your depth.

If the Staves go not ftiff enough in the Mortels of the Stock, you muft ftiffen them, by knocking a little wooden Wedge between the Staves and their Mortefles.

§. p. 0/ Molding-Planes.

THere are feveral other Planes in ufe amongft Joyners, called MoUmg-planes as, the Round, the Hollow, the Ogee, the Snipes-hill, the Rabbet-^ plane, the Grooving-plane, &c. And of thefe they have feveral forts, vtzs» from half a quarter of an Inch, to an Inch and a half. They are ufed as other Planes are. In the Planeing of Stuff, you muft ufe Planes whofe Irons have different Mountings and that according to the hardnefs, or foftnefs of the Wood, you are to work upon : For if the Wood be hard, the Iron muft ftand more upright than it need do, if the Wood be foft : For foft Wood, as Beal, Pear-tree, Maple, &c, The Iron is fet to make an Angle of 4^ De-

\ gvee?.

74 Joinery.

grees, with the Sole of the Vlane: But if it he ve- ry hard Wood you are to Plane upon, as Boxy Ebony y Lignum Vit^^ &c. It is fet to 8o Degrees, and ifometimes quite upright : So that thefe hard Woods, are, indeed, more properly laid to be Scraped, than Planed,

But before you come to ufe your Vlanesy you mull know how to grind, and whet them, for they are not fo fitted when they are bought, but every Workman accomodates them to this pur- pofe, as if it be an hard Wood he is to work on, he grinds his Bafil to a more obtufe Angle, than he would do for foft Wood.

The Bafily or Angle, an Iron is ground to, to work on foft Wood is about 12 Degrees, and for hard Wood about 18, or 20 Degrees. Where note, That the more acute, or thinner the Bafil is, the better and fmoother the Iron cuts y and the more obtufe and thicker, the ftronger the Edge is to work upon hard Work.

§. io. of Grinding and Whetting the Irony end other Edge-Tools.

WHen you grind your Irony place your two Thumbs under the Irony and your Fingers of both Hands upon the Iron^ and fo clap down your Iron to the Stone, holding it to that Angle with the Stone you intend the Bafil fhall have : Keep the Iron in this Poflure, without either mounting, or linking its ends all the while the Stone is turning about *, and when you lift the Iron off the Stoncy to fee if it be ground to your Mind ^ if it be not, you mull be Eire you place the Iron again in the fame Pofition on the Stone it had before *, for elfe you will make a double Bafil on your Iron : But if it be true fet on the Stoncy and fteddily kept to that Pofition, your Bafil will be Hollow y and the fmaller your

J 0 I JSI E R r. 7J

fione is, the hollower it will be. You may know when it is well Ground, by the evennefs, and en- tirenefs of the Edge all the way.

Having ground your Iron, you mull fmootheii the edge finer with a good Wheufione. Thus, hold the edge of your Iron upwards in your left Hand, and your fVhet-fione in your right, and having firfl: fpit upon your Stone to wet it, ap- ply it to the Ba[tl of your Iron^ in fuch a Pofition, that it may bear upon the whole breadth of the Bafii ^ and fo working the Stone over the Bafil, you will quickly wear the coyrfer grating of the Grind-ftone off the edge on that fide : Then turn the flat fide of the Iron^ and apply the Stone flat to it, till you have worn off the courfe gratings of the Grind-fione^ on that fide too.

Joiners often grind their Irons upon a fiat Grind-^one alfb : And then they hold Iron al- io in their Hands, in the fame Pofture as if it were to be ground on the Round Grind- fione : Yet then inftead of keeping the Iron on one place of the Stone^ they thrull it hard ftraight forwards, almoft the length of the Stone, and draw it lightlier ftraight back again, keeping it all the while at the iame Angle with the Su- perficies of the Stone *, and then fmoothen its edge with the Whet-fione^ as if it had been ground upon the round Grind-fione. And this they do lb otten, till they have rubbed the hollownefs of the Bajil to a flat, and then they grind it again upon the round Grind-flone»

This Order and Manner of Settings Grinding and Smoothing a Bafii and Edge, is alfo ufed in all other Edge-tools Joiners life.

7^ Joinery:

§. 10. OfChiSth of fever al Sorts'.

And firfi of Formers.

Formers marked C i. C 3. are of feveral fizesi They are called Formers^ becaule they are ufed before the paring Chijfel^ even as tht fore Flam is nfed before the fmoothing Flane, The Stuff you are to work upon being firft fcribed, ( as I fhall fliew in its proper place ) you mult fet the edge of the Former^ a little without the fcribed Stroak. with its Bajil outwards, that i% may break, an^ flioulder off the Chips from your' Work, as the Edge cuts it. And you muff bear the Helve of the Former a little inwards over the Stuffs that the Former do not at firft cut ilraight down, but a little outwards : For, fbould you venture to cut Ilraight down at the firft, you might with a negligent, or unluckly knock with the Mallet^ drive the edge of the Former under the work, and fb cut, before you are a- ware, more off the under fide than the upper Ede of your Work, ancf fo (perchance) fpoil it. Therefore you may make feveral Cuttings, to cut it flraight down by little and little, till your Work is made ready for the paring Chif fel. When it is ufed, the Helve of it is knockt upon with a Mallet^ to^ drive the edge into the Stuff.

§. II. Of the Paring-Chiffel.

THe Varing-ChiJJel marked C 2. mufl have a very fine and fmooth edge : Its Office is to follow the Former^ and to pare off and fmoothen^ the Irregularities the Former madQ.

It is not knockt-upon with the Mallet^ but the Blade is cla/ped upon the out-fide of the hin- dermofl Joints of the fore and little Fingers, by the clutched infide of the middle and third f Fingers

J O I NE RT. 77

Fingers of the right Hand, and fb its edge being let upon the f4:ribed Aw, and the top of the Helve placed againft the hollow of the infidc of the right ftioulder, with prelfing thelhouldcr hard upon the Helve^ the edge cuts and pares away the Irregularities,

This way of handling, may feera a Prepollcr- ous Pofture to manage an Iron Tool in, and yet the reafon of the Original Contriver of this Po- fture is to be approved ^ For, fhould Workmen hold the Blade of the ?aring-^Chij]el in their whole Hand, they muft either hold their Hand pretty near the Helve^ where they cannot well manage the 7ool^ or they muft hold it pretty near the edge, where the outlide of the Fingers will hitfe the fmbed line they are to pare in. But this Po- fture, all Workmen are at firft taught, and Pra- ftice doth fo inure them to it, that if they would, they could not well leave it.

§. 12, Of the Skew-Former.

THe Skew-Former marked C 4. is feldom ufed by Joiners , but for cleanling acute Angles, with its acute Angle on its edge , where the Angles of other Chijfels will not fo well come.

§.13. Of Mortefs-ChiHy*

THe Mortefs-Chifel marked C 5# is a narrow Chijfel, but hath its Blade much thicker, and confequently ftronger ( that it may endure the heavier blows with the Mallet y than other CA//- fels have, fo that in grinding it to an edge, if is ground to a very broad 5^// as you may fee in the Figure. Its Office is to cut deep fquare holes, called MortejJesj in a piece of Wood. Joinert ufe them of feveral Breadths according as the Breadths of their Mortejjes may require.

7S

J O 1 N E R T.

§i 14. OftheGotgQ.

THe C5. Is a having a

round edge, for the cutting iuch Wood as is to be Rounded^ or Hollowed,

Thefe feveral fcM“ts of ChiJJds Joiners have of feveral Sizes, that they may be accommodated toi do feveral Sizes of Work.

X

MECHJ-

(79 )

UECBAniCK EXERCISES;

O R, '

The DoArine of Handy-Works

Continued in the Art oj JOINERY.

§.15; Of the Square, and its Vfe.

TH E Square^ marked D, is two adjuncl Sides of a Geometrical Square, a The Handle* h The 'tonguti c The Outer Square* d The Inner Square, For Joiner’s ufe, it is made of two pieces of Wood, the one about an Inch thick, and the other about a quar- ter of an Inch thick : Thefe two pieces are feve- rally fhot exa&ly ftraight, and have each of their Sides parallel to each of their own Sides. The thick Piece ( called the Handle ) hath a Mortefs in it, as long within a quarter of an Inch, as the thin piece ( called the Tongue ) is broad, and llifly fo wide, as to contain the thicknefs of the Tongue. The Tongue is faftned into the Mortefs / of the Handle with Glew and wooden Pins, fo as the two outer fides ( and then confequently the two inner fides ) may ftand at right Angles with one another.

The Reafon why the Handle is fo much thicker than the Tongue, is, becaufe the Handle fliould on either fide become a Fence to the Tongue.

And

So J O I N E R r.

Ani the reafon why the Tongue hath not its whole breadth let into the end of the Handle is, becaule they may with lefs care ftrike a line by the fide of a thin than a thick piece: For if in* ftead of holding the Hand upright when they ftrike a Line, they fiiould hold it never fo little inwards, the fhank 'Of a Pricker falling againft the top edge of the Handle, would throw the Point of a Pricker farther out than a thin Piece would : To avoid which Inconvenience, the Tongue is left about half an Inch out of the end of the Handle.

Another Realbn is. That if with often ftriking the Pricker againft the Tongue it becomes rag- ged, or uneven, they can with lefs trouble Plane it again when the Stuff is all the way of an e* qual ftrength, than they can, if Crofs grain'd Shoulders be added to any part of it.

Its ufe is for the ftriking of Lines fquare ei- ther to other Lmes, or to ftraight fides, and to try the fquarenefs of their Work by *, As if they would ftrike a Line fquare to a fide they have already Ihot: They apply the infide of the Han- dle clofe to the fide fhot, and lay the Tongue flat i^on the Work, than by the outerfide of the Tongue, they draw with a Pricker a ftraight Line : This is called Strikwg^ or drawing of a Square. Or, if they would Try the fquarenefs of a Piece of Stuff fhot on two adjoining fides, they apply the infides of the Handle and Tongue to the outfides of the Stuffy and if the outfides of the Stuff do all the way agree in Line with the in- fides of the Square, it is true Square. Or if they would try the inward fquarenefs of Work, they apply the two outfides of the Square to the in- fides of the Work.

J O 1 N E RT. 8i

§. 1 5. The mmmr of Plaining an^ Trying a piece of Stujf-fquare.

WE will take, for Example, a Piece of Stuff called a Quarter, which is commonly two Inches thick, four Inches broad, and feven Foot long. To plane this Square, lay One of its broad Sides upon the Bench, with one of its ends fhov'd pretty hard into the Teeth of the Bench-hook, that it may lie the fleddier. Then with the Fore-Plane, as you were taught, § i. Numb. 2. Plane off the roughnefs the Saw made at the Pit, and work that fide of the Quarter as flreight in its length and breadth as you can with the Fore^ Plane ^ which you may give a pretty good guefs at, if the edge of the Iron have born all the way upon the Work, yet you may try by taking up your Work, and applying one end of it to One Eye, whilft you wink with the other, and obferve if any Hollow, or Dawks be in the length ; if not, yon may conclude it pretty true : For the Work thus held, the Eye will difcern pretty near- ly. Or, for more certainty, you may apply the edge of the two.foot Rule, or rather a Rule fnot the full length of the Quarter to your Work, and if it agree all the way with the Rule, you may conclude it is Rraight in length. But if you find it not ftraight, you mufi: ftill with the Fore-Plane work offthofe Rifings that bear the edge of the Pvule off any part of the Stuff: Then try if the Breadth be pretty ftraight ^ if it be, ( the Dawks the roughnefs the Fore-plane made excepted ) the firlt office of the Fore-plane is perform’d : If it be not, you mufi: Ifraighten the Breadth as you did the Length.

But tho’ this Quarter be thus plained Rraight in length and breadth, yet becaufe the Iron of the Fore-plane for its firfi; working the Stuff is fet

f Rank,

Si Jo 1 E k r.

Rank, and therefore makes great Dawks in the Stuffy yon muft fet the Iron of your Fore-plane finer, as you were taught, §. 5. Numh, 2. and with it then work down even almoft to the bot- tom of thofe Dawks : then try it again, as be- fore, and if you find it try all the way, you may, with the Jointer, or Smoothing-plane, but rather with the Jointei> go over it again, to work out the irregularities of the fine Fore plane: For the Iron of the Fore-plane being ground to a Rifing in the middle, as has been fhew’d, §. 2. Numb. 2. though it be very fine fet, will yet leave fome Dawks in the Stuff for the Jointer, or Smooth- ing-plane, to work out. Thus the firft fide of the Qiiarter will be finiflied.

Having thus tryed one fide of the Qiiarter flraight and flat, apply the infide of the Handle to it, and if one of the adjoining fides of the Qiiarter, comply alfo with the infide of the Tongue all the way, you need only fmooth that adjoining fide : But if it do notfo comply, that' is, if it be not fquare to the firft fide, which you will know by the riding of the infide of the Tongue upon one of the Edges ^ or fome other part between the Edges, you muft, with the Fore- plane Rank-fet, plain away that Stuff which bears off the infide of the Tongue from complying all the way with it. But if the Rifings be great, you may, for quicknefs, hew away the Rifings with the Hatchet : but then you muft have a care you let not the edge of your Hatchet cut too deep into the Stuft^ left you either fpoil your Stuff’, by making it unfizeable, if it be already fmall enough *, or if it have fubftaiice enough, make your felf more labour to get out thofe Hatchet-ftroaks with the Plane than you need. Then take off the roughnefs the Hatchet made with the Fore-plane Rank-fet, then fine fet, and

J 0 I NE RT. 83

lafl: of alt with the Jointer, dr Smoothing- plane :■ So is the fecond fide alfo finifhed.

To work the third lide, fet the Oval of the Gage exadiy to that width from the Gage, that you intend the Breadth of the Qiiarter ( when wrought ) (hall have, v/hich, in this our Example, is four Inches, but will be fomewhat lefs, becaufe working it true will diminifh the Stuff : Therefore Aiding the Oval on the Staff meafureon your Inch- Rule fo much lefs than four Inches, as you think your Stuff diminifhes in working : Meafure, I fay, between the Oval and the Tooth, your fize : If, at the firft proffer, your Oval ftand too far from the Tooth, hold the Oval in yonr Hand, and knock the Tooth-end of your Staff upon the Work-bench, till it Hand near enough : If thO Oval Hand too near, knock the other end of the Staff upon the Work-bench till it be fit. Then apply the flat of the Oval to the fecond wrought fide of your Stufi^ fo as the To6th may reach athwart the breadth of the Stuff’ upon the firffc fide, and keeping the Oval cldfe againfl the fe- cond fide, prefs the Tooth fo hard down, that by drawing the Gage in this pollute all along the length of the Quarter, the Tooth may flrik^ a Line. In like manner upon the fide oppofite td the firll^ viz. the fourth fide, Gage anotheiTine oppofite to the firff: gaged Line, and work your Stuff down to thofe two gaged Lines on the third fide, either with Plaining along, or with Hewing^ and afceiwards Plaining, as you were taught to work the fecond fide^

To work the fourth fide, fet the Tooth of the Gage to its exad diffance from the Oval, two Inches wanting fo much as you think the Stuff’ di- miniflfd in working, and apply the flat of the O- vai to each fide of the firff: fide^ and Gage as be- lore two Lines, one on the fecond, the other on

F 2

84 y O 1 NE RT

the third wrought lide. Work your Stuff then down on the fourth lide to thofe two Gage lines, cither with Plaining alone, or with Hewing, and afterwards Plaining, as you were taught to work the fecond fide

§. 17. To Frame two Quarters Square into one another.

YOU mull take care in Morteffing and Ten- nanting, that as near as tyou can equallize the flrength of the ildes of the Mortefs to the ftrength of the Tenant. 1 do not mean that the Stuff fhould be of an equal Subftance, for that is not equalling ftrength ; But the equalling ftrength muft be confidered with refped to the Quality, Pofition and Subftance of the Stuff: As if you were to make a Tennant upon a piece of Fur, and a Mortefs to recieve it in a piece of Oak, and the Fur and Oak have both the fame fize : The Tennant therefore made upon this piece of Fur, muft be confiderably bigger than a Tennant need be made of Oak, becaufe Fur is much a weaker Wood than Oak, and therefore ought to have a greater Subftance to equallize the ftrength of Oak. And for Pofition, the fhorter the Stuff that the Tennant is made on, the lefs Violence the Ten- nant is fubjed to. Befides, it is eafier to fplit Wood with the Grain, than to break Woodcrofs the Grain ^ and therefore the fame Wood when \ pofited as a Tennant^ is ftronger than the fame Wood of the fame fize when pofited as a Mortefs : for the injury a Mortefs is fubjed to, is fpliting with the grain of the Wood, which, without good care, it will often do in working but the force that muft injure a Tennant, muft offend it, crofs the Grain of the Wood, in which Pofition it will bell indure Violence.

When

J O I N E RT.

When two pieces of Wood, of the &me qua- lity and fubftance ( as in this our Example ) arc eledted to make on the one a Tennant, and in the other a Mortefs. If you make the Mortefs too wide, the lides of the Mortefs will be weaker than the lides that contain the Mortefs : And if one be weaker than the other, the weakell will give way to the ftrongell, when an equal Vio- lence is offer’d to both. Therefore you may fee a necelTity of equallizing the flrength of one to the other, as near as you can. But becaufe no Rule is extant to do it by, nor can ( for many Confiderations, I think,) be made, therefore this equallizing of Itrength, mull be referred to the Judgment of the Operator. Now to the Work.

The Mortefs to be made is in a Quarter four Inches broad. In this cafe Workmen make the Mortefs an Inch wide, fo that an Inch and an half Stuff remains on either fide it. Therefore your Stuff being fquar’d, as was taught in the lafl Sedion, fet the Oval of the Gage an Inch and an half off the Tooth, and gage with it, on either fide your Stuffy a flraight line at that di- ftance from the end you intend the Mortefs fhall be, then open your Compaflb to two Inches, and prick off that diftance in one of the Lines, for the length of the Mortefs *, then lay the in- lide of the Handle of the Square to one fide of the Stuff, and upon both the pricks fucceflively, and with your Pricker draw flraight Lines through them by the fide of the Tongue, fo fhall the bounds of your Mortefs beflruck out on the Quar- ter. If your Mortefs go through the Qiiarter, draw the fame Lines on the oppofite fide of the Quarter thus. Turn the Quarter, or its Edge, and apply the infideof the Handle of the Square, to the ends of the former drawn lines, and by

F ^ the

y O 1 N E RT.

the fide of the Tongue draw two Lines on the edge of the Quarter ^ then turn the QuarDr a- gain with its other broad fide upwards, and ap- ply the inCde of the Handle of the Square to the ends of the laft Lines drawn on the edge, and by the fide of the Tongue, drav/ two Lines on this broad fide alfo. Thefe two Lines ( if your Qiiar- ter was truly fqnar’d ) fhall be exaftly oppofite to the two Lines drawn on the firft broad fide of the Quarter for the length of theMortefs: And for the width of the Mortefs gage this fide alfb, as you did the firH ^ then for the Tennant, gage on that end of the Qiiarter you intend the Tennant ihall be made, the fame Lines you did for the Mortefs. And becaufe the Quarter is two In-^ ches thick, prick from the end two Inches, and applying the infide of the Handle of the Square to the fide of the Qiiarter, and the Tongue to that Prick, draw by the fide of the Tongue a Line through that fide the Quarter ^ then turn the other fides of the Qiiarter fiiccefiively, and draiy - Lines athvrart each fide the Quarter, as you were taught to draw the oppofite Lines for the Mor- trefs.

Then place the edge of the Inch-Mortefs-ChiA fel with its Bafil from you, and the Helve bear- ing a little towards you, within one half quarter of an Inch of one end of the ftruck Mortefs, and with your Mallet knpek hard upon it, till you find the Bafil of the Chiflel will no longer force the Chips out of the Mortefs ^ then remove the Cliif- fe/ tp the other end of the Mortefs » and work, as with the firfi: end, till the Chips will void no lon- ger : Then wprk away the Stuff bet ween the two, Ends, and begin again at one of the Ends, and then at the other, and v;ork deeper into the Mor- tefs, then again between both^ and fo work deeper by degrees, till you have wrought the

Mor-.

J O I NE R 7: 87

Mortefsthrough, or ( if not through ) to the in- tended Depths then with the Mortefs-chifl^ work nearer the drawn Lines at the ends of the Mortefs, ( for before you were direded to work but within half a quarter of an Inch of the drawn Lines, ) by laying lightblows on it, till you have made it fit to pare fmooth with a narrow Paring- c'hiflel, and then pare the ends, a$ you were taught to work with the Paring-chiiTel : Then with the broad Paring-chilfel, pare the Tides of the Morteft juft to the (truck Lines ; To is theMortefs finifhed-

To work the Tennant, lay the other Qiiarter on edge upon your Work-bench, and fallen it \vith the Holdfafi^ as yon were taught Sed. 1. Then with the Tennant, faw a little without the Struck-line towards the end : You muft not Saw juft upon the Struck-line, becaufe the Saw cuts rough : Befides, you muft leave (bme Stuff to pare away fmooth to the Struck' line, that the Stile ( that is, the upright Qiiarter ) may make a clofe Joint with the RaU ( that is ) the lower Quarter : Saw therefore right down with the Tennant-Saw, juft almoft to the gaged Lines for the thicknefs of the Tennant, and have a care to keep the Blade of tlje Saw exadly upright. Then turn the oppo^ fite Side of the Qiiarter upwards, and work as you were taught to work the firft Side.

Then with the Paring-chiffel ^ pare the Work clofe to the gaged Lines for the Tennant. Then try how it fits the Mor tefs : If it be not pared e^ Rough away, you muft pare it where it bears, that is, (ticks. But if you fhoiild chance to have made ' it too little, you have fpoiled your Work : There- fore you may fee how necefilry it is, not to make the Mortefs too v/ide at firft, or the Tennant too narrov/.

Then with the Piercer pierce two holes through the Sides, or Cheeks of the Mortefs, aboui half an

F 4 Inch

88 J O I N EKT.

Inch off either end one. Then knock the Tennant ffiffinto the Mortefs, and fet it upright, by ap- plying the Angle of the outer Square, to the An- gle the two Quarters make, and v/ith your Prick- er, prick round about the inlides of the Pierced holes upon the Tennant. Then take the Tennant out again, and Pierce two holes with the fame Bit, about the thicknefs of a Shilling above the Pricked holes on the Tennant^ that is, nearer the Sholder of the Tennant, that the Pins you are to drive in, may draw the Sholder of the Tennant the clofer to the fiat fide of the Quarter the Mor- tefs is made in. Then with the Paring-chiflel make two Pins fomewhat Tapering, full big e- nough, and Petting the two Quarters again fquare, as before, drive the Pins ftiffinto the Pierced holes.

If you make another Square, as you did this ; and make alfo a Tennant on each Un-tennanted end of the Stiles, and another Mortefs on the top and bottom Rails, you may put them toge- ther, and make Iquare Frames of them.

§. i8. Of the Miter Square. And its Ufe>^

THe Miter Square marked E, hath ( as the Square ) an Handle marked one Inch thick, and three Inches broad, and a Tongue marked of about the fame breadth : The Han* die and the Tongue ( as the Square ) have both their Sides parallel to their own Sides. The Han- dle ( as the Square ) hath in the middle of its narrow eft Side a Mortefs in it, of an equal depth, the whole length of the Handle*. Into this Mor- tefs is fitted one end of the Tongue, but the end of the Handle is firjQ: Bereld off to make an An- gle of 4 1 Degrees with ks infide. This Tongue is ( as the Square ) Pin'd and Giewed into the Mortefe of the Handle*

It

J 0 1 NE RT. 89

It is ufed for ftriking a Miter-line, as the Square is to ftrike a Square-line, by applying the infide of the Handle to the outfide of the (garter, or Batten, you are to work upon ^ and then by ftrik-» ing a Line by the fide of the Tongue : For that Line fhall be a Miter- line. And if upon two Bat- tens you ftrike two fuch Lines, and Saw and Pare them juft off in the Lines, when the fiats of thofe two fawn ends are applied to one another, the out and infide of the Battens, will form them- felves into the Figure of a Square.

Thus Pidure Frames, and looking Glafs-frames, are commonly made, as by a more full Example you may fee in the next Seftion.

§. 19. OftheBc^iL

AS the Square is made to ftrike an Angle of 90 Degrees, and the Miter an Angle of 45 Degrees, fo the Bevil ( marked F ) having its Tongue movable upon a Center, may be fet to ftrike Angles of any greater, or lefler numbers of Degrees, according as you open the Tongue wider from, or fhut it clofer to the Handle. It is ufed as the Square, and the Miter, and will per- form the Offices of them both, though it be not purpofely made for either , but for the ftriking fuch Bevil-lines, as one part of your work muft be cutaway to, to make it join with another part of your Work: For Example,

We will propofe to make a Frame for a Pidiure, Looking-glafs, &c, containing eight ftraight Sides; You may quickly perceive that all the ends of thefe eight Sides muft be cut to Bevils, and what Bevils they muft be, you will find if you deferibe upon a fmooth fiat Board, a Circle of any bignefs, but the larger the better : Divide this Circle in- to eight equal Parts, and from every point draw a Line to the Center : Draw alfb ftraight Lines

from

P® y 0 I N E R r.

from every point to its next Point : Then lay the inlidc of the Handle of your Bevil exadly upon a- ny one of thefe ftraight Lines, fo as the Angle made by the inllde of the Handle, and the inlidc of the Tongue, lie exadly at the very Angle made by this ftraight Line, and the Semi-Diametral Line proceeding from the Center, and move the Tongue nearer, or farther off the Handle, till the inllde of the Tongue and the inlideof the Handle, lie exaftly upon thofe two Lines, fo fliall your Be- vil be fet.

Then having fitted your Pieces to your Scant?- ling, flick your Pricker as near the outward Cor- ner of your Pieces as your Stuff will bear, and ap- ply the infide of your Handle alfb to the outer fides of your Pieces, and fo as the infide of the Tongue may be drawn home to the Pricker. For then Lines drawn on thofe Pieces by the inllde of the Tongue, lhall be the Lines the Pieces muff be cut in, to make thefe eight Pieces join evenly to- gether by the fides of each others Bevil : Then with the Strike-block finooth the ends of the Be- vils, as you were taught in the Section of the Strike-block.

If you have a Board on the back-fide of this Frame, you may Glew the back-lides of thefe pieces, piece by piece to the Board ^ but firll you muft fit them to an exaft Compliance of every Be- vil with its Match, and when they are fo fitted, drive two Nails clofe to the ontfide of every piece, but drive not the Nails deep into the Board, becaufe when the Frame is fet, and Clewed, or otherwife faflned, you mull draw the Nails out again : For thefe Nails are only intended to ferve for Fences to fet, and fit each piece into its proper Place, before the whole Frame is faftiied together. And Ihould you not thus Fence them, though by your Eye you might judge you fitted the Bevils

exa^lly.

J 0 I JN E RT. 91

cxaftly, yet one piece being never fo little out of its due Pofition, would drive the next piece more out, and that the next, till at the laft, the laft piece would not join, but either be too Ihort, or too long, or ftand too much out, or in, orelfe too open, or too clofe on the out, or infide.

But if you have no Board on the backfide_, you mull, when you Saw the Bevilling Angles upon the fquare ends of pieces, not fawn quite through the depth of one end of every piece, but about half way through the depth, or thicknefs^ and then with your Chiflel either fplit, or elfe pare, the up- per fide of the fquare end flat away to the Bevil, and fo leave part of the fquare end of your piece, to lap under the piece it is joined to. For Example,

In Fig. Plate 5. a I; is the fquare end of the piece, and he is the Bevil you work the piece to. Therefore you muft work away fo much of the thicknefs of the fquare end, as is comprehended between a andc, fo that you will fee the Triangle a hcj is to be wrought away half way down the thicknefs of the Stuffy and fo will the Triangle ah c be left for the other half thicknefs of the Stuff. But that end of the piece marked i, which joins to the piece marked 2, mull, upon its Bevil-ftroak, be fawn quite ofl^ and its underlide muft have the fame Triangle wrought into it, juft fo fit as to re- ceive the Triangle in piece 2, and juft fodeep, as that when the Triangle on piece 2, is fitted into the Triangle in piece i , the Superficies of both the pieces may be even with one another. And thus you may lap the ends of every piece into one an- other.

Thefe Triangles at the ends of the pieces you may Glew into one another, but if you think Clewing alone not ftrong enough, you may Pierce an hole near the inner edge of the Frame, *i)ecaufe the Triangle h.ath there moft Subftance of Stuff

and

92 J O I NE RT,

and afterwards Pin it, as you are taught to Pin

the Rail and Stile together in Sed. 17.

This way of Lapping over, is fometimes ufed alfo for fquare Miters, or othef Angular Frames.

§. 20; Of the Miter-^Box.

' r^Here is another way ufed by Joiners that make many Frames, to fave themfelves the labour of Drawing, or ftriking out of Squares, Miters, and feveral Bevils upon their Stuff: And this is with a Tool called a Mtter-Box^ defcribed in Plate 5. Fig. 2. Itiscompofed of two pieces of Wood, of an Inch thicl^ each, as A the upright piece, B the bottom pij6ce. The Upright piece is nailed upright, fait upon the bottom piece. And this up- right piece hath on its upper fide the Miter Lines ftruck with th^ Miter Square, as d on the left hand, and g h on the right hand : On thefe two Miter Lines the e.dge of the Saw is fet, and a kerf made Itraight dowmthe upright piece, as from d e on the left hand to f and from g h on the right hand to i. In like manner any other Bevil is llruck upon the upper fide of the upright piece with the Bevil, as / on the left hand, and n 0 on the right. On thefe two Bevil Lines the edge of the Saw is fet, and a kerf made ftraight down the upright piece, as from h^to I and from ^ ^ to i. You may make as many Bevils as you pleafe on the up- rigjfit piece of the Miter Box ^ Bevils to join Frames of either five, fix, feven, eight Sides, &c. and the manner to make them to any number of Sides, was in part taught in the lafi: Sedion. For as there you were direded to divide the Circle in- to eight equal Parts, becaufe eight was the num- ber of Sides, we propofed to make that Frame con- fill of', So, if for any number of Sides you divide the Circle into the fame equal parts, and work as you were there direded, you may find what Be-

~ Jo I NE RT, ^3

vil the pieces muft have that make a Frame that conlifts of any number of Sides.

So allb for Sawing of any Batten, or other finall pieces fquare : Strike at the Point a, on the upper fide of the upright piece a line Hraight athwart it, to and Saw ftraight down the upper piece, toc.

The manner how thefe Kerfs are fawn ftraight down with greateft certainty is, thus, Apply the inlide of the Handle of the fquare to the upper fide of the upright piece, fo as the Tongue lie clofe to that end of the Miter, Bevil, or fquare Line ftruck through the upper fide of the Miter- Box, and with the Pricker ftrike a Line clofe by the fide of the Tongue, through that fide of the upright piece ^ Turn the Tongue to the other fide of the upright piece, and apply the infide of the Handle of the fquare to the other end of the Mi- ter, Bevil, or Square Line, and with the Pricker ftrike alfo a Line clofe by the fide of the Tongue through that fide the upright piece. Thefe two Lines ftruck on either fi'ie of the upright piece, fhall be a Line on each fide in which the edge of the Saw muft run, to faw it ftraight down.

§.2i. OftheGagQ,^

THe Gage marked G ( in Plate 4 ) The Ovalb is fitted ftiff upon the Suff c, that it may be fet nearer or farther from the Tooth a. Its Office is to Gage a Line parallel to any ftraight fide. It is ufed for Tennants, and for Gaging Stuff to an equal thicknefs.

When you ufe it, you muft fet the Oval to the intended Diftance from the Tooth : If the Oval ftand too near the Tooth, Hold the Oval in your right hand, and knock the hinder end of the Staff upon the Work-bench, till it remove to its juft Diftance from the Tooth ; If it ftand too far off the

Tooth,

94 J O I N E R r.

Tooth, knock the fore end of the Staff ( viz* the Tooth end ) till it remove to its jujfb Diftance from the Tooth : If the Oval Aide not ftiff enough upon the Staff you may ftiffen it by ftriking a wooden Wedge between the Mortefs and the Staff: So may you apply the fide of the Oval next the Tooth, to the fide of any Table, or any o- ther ftraight fide, with the Tooth Gage a Line parallel (or of equal Diftance ) all the way from that fide.

§. 21. Of the Piercer.

'J'He Fiercer H, in Plate 4, hath a the Head^ h the Pad^ c the Stocky d the Bitt^ Its Office is ft) well known, that I need fay little to it. On- ly, you muft take care to keep the Bitt ftraight to the hole you pierce, left you deform the hole, or break the Bitt.

You ought to be provided with Bitts of feveral fizes, fitted into fo many Padds.

§.13. Of the Gimblet.

THe GmUet is marked I, in Plate 4. It hath a Worm at the end of its Bitt. Its Office is to make a round hole in thofe places of your work where the Stock of the Piercer by reafon of its own Sholder, or a Sholder, or Butting out upon the work will not turn about. Its Handle is held in a clutched hand, and its Bitt twifted ftiff into your work. You muft have them of feveral fizes.

§. 24. Of the Augre.

TTHe Augre marked K in Plate 4, hath a a the ^ Handle, h the Bitt. Its Office is to make great round holes. When you ufe it, the Stuff you work upon is commonly laid low under you, that you may the eafier ufe your ftrength upon it : For in twitting the Bitt about by the forces of both your

Hands,.

Jo INERT. 95

Hands, on each end of the Handle one, it cuts gi‘eat Chips out of the Stuff You muft bear your ftrength Perpendicularly ftraight to the end of the Bitt *, as with the Piercer-

§.25. Of the Hatchet.

THc Hatchet marked L, in Elate 4. Its ufe is fo ^ well known (even to the molt un-intelligent) that I need not ule many Words on it, yet thus much I will fay. Its ufe is to Hew the Irregularities offfuch pieces of Stuff which may be fooner Hewn than Sawn.

When the Edge is downwards^ and the Handle towards you, the right fde of its Edge muff be Ground to a Bevil, fo as to make an Angle of a- bout 1 2 Degrees with the left fide of it : And af- terwards fet with the Whetftone, as the Irons of Planes, &c.

§. 16. The Ufe of the Saw itt general.

IN my former Exerdfes^ I did not teach you hovr to chufe the Tools a Smith was to ufe •, Be- caufe it is a Smith s Office to make them : And be- caufe in thofe Exercifes I treated of making Iron- work, and Steel- work in general, and the making and excellency of fome Tools in particular, which might ferve as a general Notion for the Know- ledge of all Smith’s Workmanffiip, efpecially to thofe that ffiould concern themfelves with Smith- ing: But to thofe that ffiall concern themfelves with Joinery, and not with Smithing •, It wdll be neceffary that I teach them how to chufe their- Tools that are made by Smiths, that they may ufe them with more eafe and delight, and make both quicker and nearer Work with them.

All forts of Saws, for Joiner s Ufe, are to be^ fold in mofl: Iron-monger’s Shops, but efpecially* in Fofier-lane^ London; Chufe thofe that are made

of

J 6 I NE RT.

ofSt^el, (for fbme are made of Iron ) for Steel of it felf is harder and ftronger than Iron : You may know the Steel-5^7/;j from Iron-S^ii^^ thus. The StG^l-Saws are generally ground bright and fmooth, and are ( the thicknefs of the Blade con- lidered ) ftronger than Iroii-Sav/s : But the Iron- Saws are only Hammer-hardned, and therefore if they could he fo hard, yet they cannot be fo finooth, as if the Irregularities of the Hammer were well taken off with theGrindftone : See it be free from flaws, and very well Hammered, and fmoothly Ground, (that is, evenly Ground,) you may know if it be well Hammered by theftiff ben- ding of it, and if it be well Ground, (that is, e- venly Ground, ) it will not bend in one part of it more than in another •, for if it do, it is a lign that part w^ere it bends moft is, either too much Ground away, or too thin Forged in that place: But if it bend into a regular bow all the way, and be ftiff^ the Blade is good: It cannot be too ftiff, becaufe they are but Hammer-hardned, and there- fore often bow when they fall under unskilful Hands, but never break, unlefs they have been of- ten bowed in that place. The Edge whereon the Teeth are, is always made thicker than the Back, becaufe the Back follows the Edge, and if the Edge fhould not make a pretty wide Kerf, if the Back do not ftrike in the Kerf, yet by never fo little irregular bearing, or twifting of the Hand awry, it might fo ftop, as to bow the Saw ^ and (as I faid before) with often bowing it will break at laft. When Workmen light of a good Blade thus qualified, they matter not much Jwhether the Teeth be fharp or deep, or fet to their mind ; For to make them lb, is a Task they take to thern- felves : And thus they perform it : They wedge the Blade of the Saw hard into the VThettwg’^ Blocks marked P, in Vlate 4^ with the Handle to-

wardi'

J O 1 N E R r, 9f

Wards their left Hand, and the end of the Saw to the right, then with a three-fquare File they be- gin at the left hand end, leaning harder upon thd‘ lide 6f the File on the right Hand, than on that lide to the left l4and ^ fb that they File the upper- lide of the Tooth of the Saw a-flope towards the right Hand, and the underfide of the Tooth a lit- tle a-flope towards the left, pr, almoll: down- right. Having filed one Tooth thus, all the reft muftbc fo filed. Then with the Saw-wreff-^ mark- ed O, in Viate 4. they fet the Teeth of the Saiv : That is, they put one of the Notches marked aaa of the Wreji between the firft tw6 Teeth on the Blade of the Saw^ and then turn the Handle Ho- rizontally a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw \ and that at once turns the firft Tooth fdihewhat towards you, and the fe- cond Tooth from y6u: Then skipping twoTeeth^ they again put one of the Notches of the IV’reji be- tvv^een the third and fourth Teeth on the Blade of the Saw^ and then (as before ) turn the Handle a little about upon the Notch towards the end of the Saw i and that turns the third Tooth fome- what towards you, and the fourth fomewhat froni you : Thus you muft skip two Teeth at a time, and turn the Wrejl till all the Teeth of the Saw afe fa. This Setting of the Teeth oftheS^u' (as Work- men call it ) is to make the Kerf wide enough for the Back to follow^ the Edge : And is Set Ranker for foft, courfe, cheap Stuf-f^ than for hard, fine, and coftly Stuff: For the Ranker the Tooth is fet, the more Stuffis wafted in the Kerf : And befides, if the Stuff be hard it will require greater Labour to tear away a great deal of hard Sniff, than it v/ill do to tear away but a little of the fame Stiiff^ The f it Saw^ is Set fo Pvank for courfe Stuff, to make a Kerf of almoft a quarter of an Inch, but for fine and coftly Stuff' they fet it finer to fave*

G Siaffi

p8 Jo 1 NE kr.

Stufn The Whip-Saw is fet fomewhat finer than! the Pit-Saw ; the Hand-Saw^ and the ComPafs^ SaWi finer than the Whip-Saw ^ but the Tennant- Saw, Frame-Saw y and the Bow-Saw ^ &c. are fet line, and have their Teeth but very little turned ©ver the Sides of their Blades : So that a Kerf made by them, is feldom above half a half quarter of an Inch.

The reafon why the Teeth are filed to an An- gle^ pointing towards the end of the Saw^ and not ' towards the Handle of the or diredly ftraight between the Handle and end of the Saw^ is, Be- caufe th^Saw is defignedto cut only in its Progrefs forwards^ Man having in that Adivity more llrength to rid, and Command of his Hands to guide his Work, than he can have in drawing back his Savj., and therefore when he draws back his Saw^ the Work-man bears it lightly off the un- fawn which is an eafe to his Labour, and enables him the longer to continue his feveral Pro- grefiionsof the Saw.

Mafter-W orkmen, w hen they dired any of their llnderlins to faw fuch a piece of Stuff^ have feve- fal Phrafes for the fawing of it : They feldom fay Saw that piece of Stuff j But Draw the Saw through it j Give that piece of Stuff a Kerf ^ Lay a Kerf in that piece of Stuff ^ and fometimes, ( but molt un- f)ropcrly,) Cut^ or Slit that piece of Stuff : For the Saw cannot properly be faid to cut, or flit the Stuffy but it rather breaks, or tears away fuch parts of the Stuff from the whole, as the points of the Teeth prick into, and thefe parts it fo tears away are proportionable to the finenefs, or rank- nefs of the fetting of the Teeth.

The Excellency of Sawing is, to keep the Kerf cxadly in the Line marked out to be fawn, with- out wriggling on either, or both fides ^ And ftraight through the Stuffy as Work-men call it ;

that*

Joiner t. 99

that is, in a Geometrical Term, perpendicular through the upper and under fide, if your Work require it, as molt Work does : But if your Work be to be Sawn upon a Bevil, as Ibme Work fome- times is, then you are to obferve that Bevil all the length of the Stuff, &l\

§. 27. TheUfeof the Pit-SdW, marked in Plate 4,

THe Pit-Saw is not only ufed by thofe Work-^ men that make fawing Timber and Boards their whole Bufinefs, but is allb for fmall matters ufed by Joiners, when what they have to do, may perhaps be as foon done at home, as they can car- ry or fend it to the Sawyers. The manner of their working is both alike, for if it be a Board they would flit off a piece of Timber, or if they would take any Square, Qiiarter, or Batten, off, they firft fet off their Scantlin : For Example, If it be^ an Inch (or more, or lefs) they would take off a piece of Stuff, they open the Points of their Compaffes to an Inch Meafure on their Rule, and fo much more as they reckon the Kerf of the Saw v/ill make, and from on fide of their Stuff they fee ■ off at either end of the Stuff the Diffance of ths points of their Compafies ^ at this Diffance there- fore they make with the points of their Compaffes a prick at either end of the Stuffy Then with Chalk they whiten a Line, by rubbing the Chalk pretty hard upon it *, Then one holds the Line at one end upon the prick made there, and the other llrains the Line pretty ftiff upon the prick at the